How to: change SST transmission fluid

[MTZL]

I found this for all the DIYers. When I get to it, I may do my own version of How to for RAs.
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35444

ON-VEHICLE SERVICE

TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL CHECK


1.After cleaning the outer surface of transaxle, visually check that there is no oil oozing or oil leaking from the transaxle.

2.If an oil oozing or leaking is present, replace the transaxle assembly.
TRANSMISSION OIL CHANGE

1.Remove the engine compartment under cover front B assembly. (Refer to GROUP 51 − Under Cover P.51-16.)


2.Remove the oil drain plug to drain the oil.

NOTE:

Because the oil in the oil cooler and oil filter cannot be drained, the amount of drained oil will be approximately 5.5 dm3.

3.Tighten the oil drain plug to the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 25 N⋅m (19 ft-lb)

4.Remove the air cleaner element, air cleaner intake duct, and air cleaner body. (Refer to GROUP 15 − Air Cleaner P.15-10.)

5.Remove the oil filler plug, then fill the oil.

Brand name: Mitsubishi genuine Dia-Queen SSTF-I

Filling amount: Approximately 5.5 dm3 (approximately 5.8 quarts)

6.Tighten the oil filler plug to the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 25 N⋅m (19 ft-lb)

http://roadraceengineering.com/evox/tech/sst-fillanddrain.jpg

7.Install the air cleaner element, air cleaner intake duct, and air cleaner body. (Refer to GROUP 15 − Air Cleaner P.15-10.)

8.Start the engine, then let it idle for 1 to 2 minutes.

9.Move the shift lever to every position, and then move it to the P or N range.

10.Stop the engine, then perform Steps 2 to 5 again.

11.Check the oil level and oil fouling. (Refer to P.22C-328.) If fouling is found, repeat Steps 2 to 5 until the fouling is eliminated.

12.Install the engine compartment under cover front B assembly. (Refer to GROUP 51 − Under Cover P.51-16.)

[Edit]
OEM Fluid & Filter P/N:
-DiaQueenSSTF P/N C0002610
-SSTF Filter P/N 2513A040

Tools Required:
-Funnel to fill SSTF something that will fit into US nickle ($0.05) size hole.

Additional Notes:
-RA battery is in the way of fill plug/bolt (Battery must be removed)
-Intake funnel is in the way of battery. (Stock Intake funnel must be removed)
-Plastic Battery Tray must be removed. Squeeze wiggle free from wires & detach the wiring from the tray.
-Small bracket which is under the battery tray must be removed (2 x 10mm socket) *If I remember it right**

*Fill plug, Drain plugs are (8mm allen) 19lbs of torque.

-Do not pry any part of SST filter. *Tab/hook* it is easy to break made out of plastic.
-Slowly twist with firm grip the tab will click thru until filter is off.
-Install the filter the same way do not force anything *Tab/hook* it is easy to break made out of plastic. I dont have spec on the torque for filter but hand tight is good as long as threads are not showing.
-Make sure you lube (thats what she said) the NEW SST Filter with SST Fluid like you would to the NEW oil filter with oil before installation.

- When you fill the SSTF use the corner edge to guide the fluid so prevent spilling.

I will take pictures & do an actual RA how to later...

[EVO LITE]

Thanks for finding this. :D

[Slyman]

That's a good one, now I can prepare myself to get the things I need and will do this sometimes next month at my shop at the school.;)

[MTZL]

Bump for Rallirun. ;)

Sry, I posted in DIY instead of How to.
This is the reason why you had trouble finding it. :D

[MTZL]

Ok Blaze. This is "How to:" but I accidentally posted in a DIY section. Can you move it to "How to:" section?

[2010ralliartDM]

i picked up some sst fluid and the filter today and the service dept at mitsu sold it to me and then before i left told me if i didnt have a certified mechanic change it for me and proof they did if anything went wrong with my transmission for any reason it would not be covered because they would not know if it was the right amount or the proper fluid ....

[MTZL]

i picked up some sst fluid and the filter today and the service dept at mitsu sold it to me and then before i left told me if i didnt have a certified mechanic change it for me and proof they did if anything went wrong with my transmission for any reason it would not be covered because they would not know if it was the right amount or the proper fluid ....

scare tactics. as long as you use Diaqueen SSTF you will be fine.
you do not want to over fill so you fill the amount you drained.
from reading others that had their SSTF changed it is 7-7.5L.

19lbs for all drain & fill (8mm Allen) bolts.

Nothing to it but to do it.

[MTZL]

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/7681/dscn2143f.jpg

Intake Funnel removed
Battery removed

http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/6620/dscn2145.jpg

Battery Tray & negative battery cable holder

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/1518/dscn2146o.jpg

Positive battery cable bracket (10mm bolts x 2)

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/9565/dscn2147.jpg

Close up

[MTZL]

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/1521/dscn2148s.jpg

SST Fill point with Funnel. Better to use $.05 (US Nickle) size funnel to fill.

[2010ralliartDM]

i changed my sst fluid today only had 2 drain plugs caught all the fluid and it ended up being 5.75 litres, reading everyone elses comments this seems like it should be more

[MTZL]

Yeah 2009 has 3 drain plugs.
you should at least have 7L-7.5L.
5-6L seems low.

How does it shift? if you're having jerky shifting add more fluid.
small amount at a time you should be able see the fill point so check & use caution when topping off the fluid.

[2010ralliartDM]

my tranny shifts like shit lol it slips

[MTZL]

not enough fluid. try topping it off, small amount at a time so you dont over fill. you may just need 1L more.

How did you measure the fluid?

[2010ralliartDM]

4l containers that have measurments on the side under both drainplugs

[MTZL]

did you remove the filter & drain too?

ok, fill the sstf look straight down fill until you see reflection from the fluid.
Should just be around approx. 1L more

5-6L just doesnt sound right.

was your drain plug loose like mine?

Still on stock SST coolers right?

are you sure you only have two drain plugs? :D

I had 8.5L when I did mine with upgrade coolers.
I recently topped it off with 1L more it shifts much smoother. ;)

CAUTION: remember small amount at a time & check again.
*Torque wrench all fill & drain plugs to 19lbs spec.*

Lmk what happens & how it turn out.

[2010ralliartDM]

yea i took the filter off and drained it too lol and yea only 2 plugs i was confused for awhile searched everywhere for the third and yea im on stock coolers ... i wish these ssts had a dipstick or a fill hole that would start to drain like the tc lol

[MTZL]

ON-VEHICLE SERVICE

TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL CHECK


1.After cleaning the outer surface of transaxle, visually check that there is no oil oozing or oil leaking from the transaxle.

2.If an oil oozing or leaking is present, replace the transaxle assembly.
TRANSMISSION OIL CHANGE

1.Remove the engine compartment under cover front B assembly. (Refer to GROUP 51 − Under Cover P.51-16.)


2.Remove the oil drain plug to drain the oil.

NOTE:

Because the oil in the oil cooler and oil filter cannot be drained, the amount of drained oil will be approximately 5.5 dm3.

3.Tighten the oil drain plug to the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 25 N⋅m (19 ft-lb)

4.Remove the air cleaner element, air cleaner intake duct, and air cleaner body. (Refer to GROUP 15 − Air Cleaner P.15-10.)

5.Remove the oil filler plug, then fill the oil.

Brand name: Mitsubishi genuine Dia-Queen SSTF-I

Filling amount: Approximately 5.5 dm3 (approximately 5.8 quarts)

6.Tighten the oil filler plug to the specified torque.

Tightening torque: 25 N⋅m (19 ft-lb)

http://roadraceengineering.com/evox/tech/sst-fillanddrain.jpg

7.Install the air cleaner element, air cleaner intake duct, and air cleaner body. (Refer to GROUP 15 − Air Cleaner P.15-10.)

8.Start the engine, then let it idle for 1 to 2 minutes.

9.Move the shift lever to every position, and then move it to the P or N range.

10.Stop the engine, then perform Steps 2 to 5 again.

11.Check the oil level and oil fouling. (Refer to P.22C-328.) If fouling is found, repeat Steps 2 to 5 until the fouling is eliminated.

12.Install the engine compartment under cover front B assembly. (Refer to GROUP 51 − Under Cover P.51-16.)

NOTE: 5.8 quart per instruction is 5.488847 Liters. Which is low..
I drained 7L out of my SST. So instruction is confusing...
I filled my sst coolers & lines before I fill the sst, to see how much I needed.
I was worried about over fill so I didnt fill more than 8.5L.
Recently topped off the sstf with 1L more didnt have over fill issues.
Shift is much smoother.

Im curious to see how many RA with low fluid level having SST slip.
How many 2010 have changed their fluid??
How many of you had less then 6L???

[2010ralliartDM]

im wondering if all 2010's have 2 drain plugs or do some have 3 ? and if the fluid level is different? maybe the low fluid is causing the clutch slip?

[razorlab]

My 2010 has only 2 drain plugs.

[2010ralliartDM]

have you drained your sst fluid and if you have was it around 5 1/2 litres?

[MTZL]

im wondering if all 2010's have 2 drain plugs or do some have 3 ? and if the fluid level is different? maybe the low fluid is causing the clutch slip?

My point exactly.

With additional cooler I went thru 2 complete 4L containers plus the third container about .5L, I gave Wutangmo15 some of my left over fluid for his coolers to top his off. I use the remaining in my RA recently. Worked out pretty good because It got me to post those pics. Adding a little bit of fluid smooth out the shifting experience.

The downside of having extra coolers is I would have to buy 3 containers instead of 2 every afew changes. :(

[razorlab]

have you drained your sst fluid and if you have was it around 5 1/2 litres?

Yes I did, I didn't measure it, I have no idea.

[MTZL]

I double checked when I drain my fluid. No mistake unless my measuring tool was off. My highly sophisticate measuring tool in picture below. :D
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4429/dscn1641j.jpg

Two drain pans was poured into my highly sophisticate measuring tool one at a time to 3L mark dump into another container twice with 1L mark on the last measure = 7L before i remove the stock cooler & lines... :)
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/5639/dscn1635l.jpg

[TheBlackBeast]

Woohoo! Changed trans fluid/filter this weekend! Easier than I thought it would be too.

[TrailBrake]

So the best results (smoothest shifting) is around 7 to 7.5L eh. Interesting. Thanks for the info.

I will have to give that a try, as I used 6.5L at my most recent change. Only 6L came out, but that was changed by the dealer and I wouldn't be surprised if they got the amount wrong.

For my car, shifting has been smoother with that extra .5L of fluid in there, but still jerky on occasion. I will add a little more so it's around 7L in total and hopefully that will help things.

[MTZL]

I have 2009, on 2010+ there slight variation. ie two drain plug opposed to three.
no confirmation on Liter amount for 2010+ so do this at your own risk!
I would say add .5L at a time. check & double check.

[TrailBrake]

Thanks. I have an '09 with three drain plugs. Later this afternoon I'll be adding .5L of that lovely green stuff and see how she goes.

[RalliNurse]

@ MTZL...mike did u notice anything different pre and post (before and after) sst coler installation...I want to know if there any difference such as shifting, color changes, fluid odor, longitivity, etc...and also when did u do ur first sstf change? I'm at 10100 miles now...and I baby my car...but a lot of short distance driving...sstf change about 25000 u think?

[MTZL]

@ MTZL...mike did u notice anything different pre and post (before and after) sst coler installation...I want to know if there any difference such as shifting, color changes, fluid odor, longitivity, etc...and also when did u do ur first sstf change? I'm at 10100 miles now...and I baby my car...but a lot of short distance driving...sstf change about 25000 u think?

Pre & post?
I got SST tuned by Bryan@GST before I installed the upgraded coolers.

Kinda got lucky, I bought the coolers from Mike@RRE & got SST tuning.

So after sst tune I notice the difference in initial throttle response & smoother SST shifting.

I installed the additional coolers after, I drove it very very conservatively for about two weeks. To make sure I didnt have any leaks or destroy my SST, etc.. No leak = good.


I changed mine around 32k miles.

Fluid will lose its color after heat get to it over time.
Starts out neon green & will turn dark brown.

I still cant exactly describe how it smells. I will get back to you on that one. I can say It is not something I would like to inhale.

Cooler fluid should give you a bit longer life than fluid under thermal break down.

25k doesnt sound bad if you can afford to.

Im well over 38k miles. Still smooth..

[Mkid]

I'm still running smooth as well.

http://www.overstockdrugstore.com/product_images/c/381370089025.jpg

lmao

[RalliNurse]

I'm still running smooth as well.

http://www.overstockdrugstore.com/product_images/c/381370089025.jpg

lmao

Smart ass...lol :D

[TheBlackBeast]

@ MTZL...mike did u notice anything different pre and post (before and after) sst coler installation...I want to know if there any difference such as shifting, color changes, fluid odor, longitivity, etc...and also when did u do ur first sstf change? I'm at 10100 miles now...and I baby my car...but a lot of short distance driving...sstf change about 25000 u think?
I know you are asking mike specifically, but I can tell you the fluid smells like crap. Definitely want to do that in a well ventilated area...

I just changed my SST fluid @50,440miles for the first time (last weekend). If mine retires early, then we might have a reason. If it outlives all you guys, meh, I saved sum bux. I never went on extended runs with it, never got the slow down warning some have had. I mostly do driving for work around so cal, so lots of freeway driving in 6th gear @ 65mph +/-... I guess you could say I'm a cheap a$$ gambler. :p


Fluid will lose its color after heat get to it over time.
Starts out neon green & will turn dark brown.

I still cant exactly describe how it smells. I will get back to you on that one. I can say It is not something I would like to inhale.
I would say mine was closer to black... :eek:

If I had been to track events, gotten the slow down warning, drag raced or other things that are harsh on the transmission, then I would have definitely changed it sooner. Getting that thing hot is what will cause the molecular structure of the fluid to break down, thus making it not perform as well. I did notice over the past month or so that shifting had become rougher and more hesitation with shifting, plus I could swear the car was slower when launching. Now the shifts are much smoother, faster and launching is back to new. In hindsight, I probably should have changed it about 5k sooner, but that wouldn't have worked for me...

[TrailBrake]

I topped up my SST fluid this afternoon and took my '09 RA for a test drive.

From experimenting with different fluid levels, here are my observations;

6L: Jerky shifts most of the time, especially from complete stop
6.5L: Jerky occasionally
7.2-7.3L: Jerks very rarely, and much less severely

I'm going to err on the side of caution and leave the fluid level where it is.

[2010ralliartDM]

did noone with a 2010 do there own sst fluid change and measure the fluid :p

[TrailBrake]

I did some lapping earlier today, and having a little over 7L of fluid made for a very responsive and smooth tranny in my '09 RA.

No overheating warnings either, as it was only 25C and I have my fog lights removed and some a little ducting work to channel more air to the cooler.

[MTZL]

Cool running? :cool:

[TrailBrake]

100km of lapping over the course of the day and no 'slow down' warnings, so I was a very happy camper.

No engine cover, hood vents opened up a bit with the metal plate removed, and a bottle of Royal Purple's Purple Ice in the coolant.

[BravoZero]

Nice! Never heard of Royal Purple's Purple Ice before...

[GAbOS]

It would be key info to know the high and low pressure zones around and in the nose of this car. If I had a load of sensors, I would. :P It could be something as crazy as sealing the hood exit ducts (just saying) that would cause this huge gain. Air does crazy stuff. Being an avid F1 fan doesn't help either.

The nose of my car gets more warm compared to other cars I have owned. As if the air is just staying inside increasing ambient temps. Ambient temps decrease the efficiency of any heat exchange/radiator unit, no?

Being an old school "air only" pc overclocker, my brain got to work.

[Mkid]

A lot of people remove the plate covering the second vent but I left it on for this same reason. It could actually direct the air in a more efficient way by leaving that one blocked... or maybe Mitsubishi covered it just so the engine cover would stay clean when it rained. lol. I personally want someone to do some kind of test to decide once and for all if taking that plate off actually helps or not. It would be very hard to test though :(

[BravoZero]

A lot of people remove the plate covering the second vent but I left it on for this same reason. It could actually direct the air in a more efficient way by leaving that one blocked... or maybe Mitsubishi covered it just so the engine cover would stay clean when it rained. lol. I personally want someone to do some kind of test to decide once and for all if taking that plate off actually helps or not. It would be very hard to test though :(

I think most people remove the plate and open both vents completely just to dissipate the heat under the hood, I can't see how effective they would be at taking in cooler air since the vents point the opposite direction. However, I can maybe see the scoop up towards the window being effective if you were to raise it up a bit like the Rexpeed carbon hood scoop and open up the plate underneath it more.

[TrailBrake]

Agreed.

Given the position and direction or angle of the front two vents, they are for heat release, not for intake of cool air.

That said, I will be re-inserting the metal plates between the vents and the hood come winter.

[2010ralliartDM]

Now that some time has passed and I'm sure there are some people with 2010 s that changed there fluid can anyone confirm how much fluid was in there

[Jackal]

I recently changed the SST fluid on my car and have helped 2 our people change their fluid at my garage and results have been between 5.6 and 6.5 litres. Keep in mind we had the car on jack stands so front end of car was raised and back wheels stayed on the concrete. It also depends it you bother draining the cooler and lines etc. I believe the dealership is afraid of over filling the transmission and errors on the less is more way of thinking.

[2010ralliartDM]

Did any of them happen to be a 2010 with only 2 drain plugs ?

[Jackal]

No actually all 3 cars were 2009 models with 3 plugs.

[2010ralliartDM]

Ah ha I wonder maybe with the two drain plugs maybe less can be drained I have changed mine twice and only get around 5.8 litres and don't want to put more then that in without confirming its low

[Jackal]

No sounds like your pretty much right on the money. My car was 6.5 litres but that was with draining the stock cooler and hoses since I was upgrading to the bigger AMS unit so we added .5 litres as per the AMS directions so 7 litres went back in.
Second car I did was just under 6 liter but we figured with the residue in the drain pan and a few drops on the floor we just called it 6 but owner wanted to add .5 liter more.

Third car I helped with was also a little under 6 but once again this owner added a little more than a half litre extra. I believe we put approx. 6.4 litres

All 3 cars have been driving around 1 to 6 weeks with no issues what so ever.

[RalliNurse]

No sounds like your pretty much right on the money. My car was 6.5 litres but that was with draining the stock cooler and hoses since I was upgrading to the bigger AMS unit so we added .5 litres as per the AMS directions so 7 litres went back in.
Second car I did was just under 6 liter but we figured with the residue in the drain pan and a few drops on the floor we just called it 6 but owner wanted to add .5 liter more.

Third car I helped with was also a little under 6 but once again this owner added a little more than a half litre extra. I believe we put approx. 6.4 litres

All 3 cars have been driving around 1 to 6 weeks with no issues what so ever.

Yeah 6 to 7 is about right...when I got mine done...RRE put in 7 back in and I have no prob since January...

[malojimbone]

Do you need to flush out the tranny system with mineral oil before refilling with new fluid?

[crak]

I would say no. I did not with my fluid change. Some people are sticklers and want to do the mineral oil trick. But I think its just extra work thats not necessary.

[TrailBrake]

I would say no. I did not with my fluid change. Some people are sticklers and want to do the mineral oil trick. But I think its just extra work thats not necessary.

Agreed.

What is important during a fluid change is to change the filter. I believe the service manual only mentioned that starting with the 2012 model year. The paper filter can become incredibly dirty if not changed regularly.

As well, be sure to drain the fluid in the transmission cooler. You don't want to be recirculating that old, dirty fluid either.

[Burngeart09]

I just took my 09 RA in for this $968.00 service this morning.

Transmission and diff flush, with battery service. The most expensive part was the oil. 470 bucks. Doing it yourself is a great idea. How much they used? My bill shows 8L. It also shows them using 5L of synthetic engine oil... Thats only because the bill shows the levy for them..

[crak]

8L seems over board. Our cars use ~6L of transmission fluid.

FYI: did my rear diff and transfer case this weekend. Put in redline heavy shock proof for the transfer case and 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil for the Rear Diff. The car feels a ton tighter. by tight i mean, not jerky, feels solid built when shifting and transferring power.

http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/133.png
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/images/products/44.png

[TrailBrake]

I just took my 09 RA in for this $968.00 service this morning.

Transmission and diff flush, with battery service. The most expensive part was the oil. 470 bucks. Doing it yourself is a great idea. How much they used? My bill shows 8L. It also shows them using 5L of synthetic engine oil... Thats only because the bill shows the levy for them..

Diaqueen comes in 4L cans, so they charged you for two. Hopefully the fluid in the cooler was changed as well for that price. Did they change the filter?

[iralli_iskustvo]

Once I do the tranny fluid change, first I drain the tranny fluid, than replace OEM filter, I also decided I will drain the fluid in the SST cooler hose near LICP. My question is..since I am taking out the fluid out of SST cooler hose does that mean when I refill the new SSTF-1 fluid into the refill hole do I put in 5.5L plus additional 1.7-2L since I drained SST cooler fluid from the hose? And for the people that didnt bother to take out the fluid in the SST cooler hose will only have to refill the fluid with 5.5L-6L or still have to put more correct me if I am wrong..

Can I tighten the tranny oem filter and all the drain plugs by hand (carefully)?

tightening by hand (no torque wrench)

[iralli_iskustvo]

I can only find tightening torque on the oil drain plugs..what about the tightening torque for the OEM tranny filter?

[Jackal]

Torque the drain plugs to spec and plastic oil filter housing by hand.
Make sure you screw it far enough that retention plastic tab engages to prevent it from backing off.

Leave engine bottom tray off.

Give bottom of trans and surrounding area a quick wipe down with varsol or another solvent. This will give you a clean grease free surface.
Take car for a quick ride min. 10 minutes or longer then check for leaks etc. then replace engine tray after your satisfied there are no leaks.

[iralli_iskustvo]

Torque the drain plugs to spec and plastic oil filter housing by hand.
Make sure you screw it far enough that retention plastic tab engages to prevent it from backing off.

Leave engine bottom tray off.

Give bottom of trans and surrounding area a quick wipe down with varsol or another solvent. This will give you a clean grease free surface.
Take car for a quick ride min. 10 minutes or longer then check for leaks etc. then replace engine tray after your satisfied there are no leaks.

Thank you Jackal! Well said and explained as always.

[iralli_iskustvo]

When I will do tranny change I think I will not take out the SST cooler hose to drain the fluid, just gonna drain all the fluid from the plugs of the tranny put new OEM filter..but my question is since I am going with FFL-2 fluid would that mix with the Diaqueen fluid that left a bit in the SST cooler hose and mess up my tranny since its 2 different fluids? Correct me if I am wrong..

[iralli_iskustvo]

Torque the drain plugs to spec and plastic oil filter housing by hand.
Make sure you screw it far enough that retention plastic tab engages to prevent it from backing off.

Leave engine bottom tray off.

Give bottom of trans and surrounding area a quick wipe down with varsol or another solvent. This will give you a clean grease free surface.
Take car for a quick ride min. 10 minutes or longer then check for leaks etc. then replace engine tray after your satisfied there are no leaks.

When I change my engine oil, I dont use torque wrench at all for my drain plug..will that be an issue?

[MTZL]

Ok guys im going to say it again. It is 7.5 Liters with stock cooler. 7.5 Liters is actually in the SST fluid capacity table in owner manual.

[iralli_iskustvo]

Ok guys im going to say it again. It is 7.5 Liters with stock cooler. 7.5 Liters is actually in the SST fluid capacity table in owner manual.

7.5 capacity does not mean we actually put in 7.5 its whatever we catch in the pans from the drainage correct?

[Jackal]

I think you have asked all the questions in regards to this oil change and then some. By continuing to ask more questions, you will get more answers which are going to confuse you and make you ask even more questions. LOL!

You have all the answers, and I understand you are nervous. I suggest you do this with someone a friend or relative that has some automotive experience just to be there for you.

Make sure you do the work, as you go through the steps needed you will see and understand better what everyone has been talking about. After your going to be like, wow that was easy. I stressed out about nothing. Now you will have the confidence to take on more things you may have wanted to do on your car. You will feel a sense of pride having done it yourself and saved some money in the process.

Just work safe and have fun. If for some reason you get stressed out during the process, take a break, grab a drink, go chat with a friend etc. The car will still be there when you get back.

[iralli_iskustvo]

I think you have asked all the questions in regards to this oil change and then some. By continuing to ask more questions, you will get more answers which are going to confuse you and make you ask even more questions. LOL!

You have all the answers, and I understand you are nervous. I suggest you do this with someone a friend or relative that has some automotive experience just to be there for you.

Make sure you do the work, as you go through the steps needed you will see and understand better what everyone has been talking about. After your going to be like, wow that was easy. I stressed out about nothing. Now you will have the confidence to take more things you may have wanted to do on your car. You will feel a sense of pride having done it yourself and saved some money in the process.

Just work safe and have fun. If for some reason you get stressed out during the process, take a break, grab a drink, go chat with a friend etc. The car will still be there when you get back.

True statement!

[iralli_iskustvo]

Just called my local dealership and I almost shit my pants when I found out my dealership charges only $142.79 for "2 gallons" of Diaqueen sstf1 I couldnt believe it had to ask them 3 times lmao. Other mitsu dealership in different county charges $162.53 for just 1 gallon. Is this a miracle or what lol.

[chucknut32]

Just called my local dealership and I almost shit my pants when I found out my dealership charges only $142.79 for "2 gallons" of Diaqueen sstf1 I couldnt believe it had to ask them 3 times lmao. Other mitsu dealership in different county charges $162.53 for just 1 gallon. Is this a miracle or what lol.

I traced our Diaqueen fluid back to the base and found this: http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=J1D2111-12B.

Diaqueen is made from a single source of fluid distributed to many company. If you look down the page our stuff, along with VW and other SST trannys, are made by a single company. I bought a box of 12 for around $120 and found the filter on ebay for $80. Changed the oil around 4k miles ago and haven't had a problem yet! Take that dealerships!!

P.s. I just threw in an even 8L and it did not "top off". Everythings good.

[iralli_iskustvo]

I traced our Diaqueen fluid back to the base and found this: http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=J1D2111-12B.

Diaqueen is made from a single source of fluid distributed to many company. If you look down the page our stuff, along with VW and other SST trannys, are made by a single company. I bought a box of 12 for around $120 and found the filter on ebay for $80. Changed the oil around 4k miles ago and haven't had a problem yet! Take that dealerships!!

P.s. I just threw in an even 8L and it did not "top off". Everythings good.

Interesting.

[beretta_m9a1]

I traced our Diaqueen fluid back to the base and found this: http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=J1D2111-12B.

Diaqueen is made from a single source of fluid distributed to many company. If you look down the page our stuff, along with VW and other SST trannys, are made by a single company. I bought a box of 12 for around $120 and found the filter on ebay for $80. Changed the oil around 4k miles ago and haven't had a problem yet! Take that dealerships!!

P.s. I just threw in an even 8L and it did not "top off". Everythings good.

yup yup, i put the VW DSG stuff. 20k miles later still no problem

[kaiser1991]

I was running the FFL2 fluid for about 12k miles. The shifts in manual sport and normal we're getting very very jerky. Changed back to Diaqueen SSTFI and the shifts are butter :p

Btw, I purchased the Diaqueen from AWD Motorsports in Florida. They are great guys!

[Jackal]

Just as an FYI in regards to new information that has surfaced lately in regards to fluids other than the factory Diaqueen SST tansfluid. There has been some research by Jacks Transmission and other independent sources that indicate the sensors and other electronics buried inside the transmission that are in contact with the hot transfluid are protected by a gel coat or some sort. But over time these other fluids have the capability to degrade the protective gel coating on these parts and would eventually lead to failure of these critical parts.

The general consensus is to revert back to the Factory Diaqeen fluid as it has some sort of additive to help preserve or at least not be corrosive to the gel coat in question.

Note: Some sources have also said the SSP Gold fluid is safe to use as well.

I have chosen not to clutter the thread with half a dozen links to other sites etc.. as everyone here is capable of Googling it.

[iralli_iskustvo]

Need urgent help, well more of an answer to my question..I did SST fluid change including putting a new SST filter. Here's my question I hope and pray I did this properly..when I replaced SST filter with the new one I put the new SST filter with the top circle part of the filter in the button till it clicked. Was that the proper way of doing it..or did I put the filter upside down??

I put the SST filter in the same way its on the picture I attached.

[Ripsco]

Need urgent help, well more of an answer to my question..I did SST fluid change including putting a new SST filter. Here's my question I hope and pray I did this properly..when I replaced SST filter with the new one I put the new SST filter with the top circle part of the filter in the button till it clicked. Was that the proper way of doing it..or did I put the filter upside down??

I put the SST filter in the same way its on the picture I attached.

Yes, I believe your filter is upside down. When I changed mine the original one I removed had the circle portion at the top. So that is how I put the new one in. See attached diagram also. It shows the circle portion on top when you put it in.