Swaybar size recommendations

[BravoZero]

I'm getting my BC coilovers installed soon and I'd like to do all of my suspension mods first before touching the engine any further. After the coilovers I plan on getting the RRE rear strut bar and upgrading the front and rear swaybars. I'm kind of new when it comes to swaybars, and I understand that they have the biggest effect when it comes to handling aside from shocks and struts.

So, the Ralliart has 22mm fronts and 20mm rear swaybars. A gentleman over on EvoM suggested that most people that were ordering the Whiteline swaybars are going with 26mm front and 22mm rear. I haven't put my car through the "handling" test completely but I do want to have a setup that's balanced, no major oversteer or understeer. I also read somewhere that leaving the front sway bar alone and just upgrading the rear would aleviate understeer.

Anyone have opinions on this?

[vplukas101]

i was told go bigger on the rear to kill the understeer and give some over steer so bigger in the rear small in the front is what i would do

[MTZL]

Get 24mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar.

[wwralliart77]

You do realize that you have to remove the rear subframe along the rear diff to remove the oem sway bar and install the new one? So the install fee goes way up since you'd be buying rear diff fluid as well. Just something to consider. If it's still worth doing I'd suggest the 24 mm rear along with the positive traction kit. Kinda off topic but what do you guys think about GTSPECs ladder brace as another option vs. the rear sway bar since it's literally "bolt on". That way the high install fees of the sway bar aren't an issue. Here's a link to the ladder brace: http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product.php?productid=1973&cat=188&page=1

[Dan379]

The ladder brace is not an alternative to a sway bar, they serve completely different purposes. The ladder brace will aid in chassis rigidity and will tighten up any movement of the rear subframe, but it won't help aid in under/over steer.

After market braces like that just seem like bling parts to me. Have a suspension/chassis fab guy do a set up subframe connectors and have him build a brace with it. Much better bang for the buck.


As far as sway bars are concerned, In a rear happy car you want a bigger front bar to add in understeer and pull out over steer. in a understeering car you want a larger rear bar to even things out. In general to make a car steer flat FWD gets a bigger rear bar, RWD gets a bigger front bar, AWD get the same size.

Adjustable bars are awesome, if you know how to set up a suspension and will actually take the time to dial the thing in. If you plan on putting in the part and not dicking with it latter don't bother with an adjustable. The same is true about spring/shocks, camber setups.


And finally if you aren't sure how to set up your sway bars or suspension, find a shop that does. When in doubt call RRE, AMS, or Magnus. They aren't parts pushers they are race shops. A proper suspension is worth what ever the price tag is, a bad suspension is worth your life insurance policy. This is one of the areas that you shouldn't screw around with if you don't know what you are doing.

[sstevojr]

You dont have to remove the rear diff, but you do have to disconnect the rear subframe to slide the OEM bar out and the new one in. No need to touch the diff fluid, or anything else; about 30 min job.
Now the front, thats a WHOLE 'nother animal. That one is the PITA, big time! Not only do you have to disconnect the front subframe, but also the steering column. Plus you have the be very careful reconnecting the steering column, as it has be doen exactly as how it was taken apart, relative to reconnecting.
In the end, I choose to have RRE do it for me, as it was more than I was willing to do in my garage, and I'm VERY much a hands on person :)

[BravoZero]

Damn... I didn't know all of that was involved. I'll have to get underneath the car and take a look before I decide on anything. Might have to take it up to Mach V and have them install any swaybars I might buy. They're installing my BC coilovers soon, and I've heard great things about Mach V.

[MTZL]

You dont have to remove the rear diff, but you do have to disconnect the rear subframe to slide the OEM bar out and the new one in. No need to touch the diff fluid, or anything else; about 30 min job.
Now the front, thats a WHOLE 'nother animal. That one is the PITA, big time! Not only do you have to disconnect the front subframe, but also the steering column. Plus you have the be very careful reconnecting the steering column, as it has be doen exactly as how it was taken apart, relative to reconnecting.
In the end, I choose to have RRE do it for me, as it was more than I was willing to do in my garage, and I'm VERY much a hands on person :)

So you got front & rear upgraded sway bars?? Specs? Whiteline? How does it perform? How do you have it set up? Im happy for you man. I want a test drive or joy ride. lol.
I will be upgrading those down the road... :)

[Dan379]

Mach V has been in the DSM game for a long time and they have a good rep. I've never had the privilege to get out there or to hang out with those guys, but I have ordered parts from them. They aren't some fly by night dorm room racers. Go talk to them about what you are wanting and see what they think.

[MTZL]

I recommend upgrading both front & rear sway bars together.

26mm front
24mm rear.

I know they make 27mm rear for evo x. idk if it will bolt up.
Maybe custom rsb can be made to spec for RA.