View Full Version : CXRacing Evo X Parts?
A local Evo X owner offered me some CXRacing parts at a good deal. From what he has told me, it is this kit:
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=KIT-EVO10-BOV009&Category_Code=EVO
He said the BOV appears to have GReddy internals.
He also has a one off Evo X intake kit made by them that they never mass produced.
He is willing to sell it all to me for $100
My question is, is this worth me buying? What adapters would I need to get for the piping kit to work and would it work without needing a tune?
As for the intake, obviously I'd need to relocate the battery or maybe get the AMS battery, but aside from that, would it work? I'm assuming I'd need a tune after that is installed.
Sorry if this stuff has been asked elsewhere but it is a lot of different questions so I figured it would be better to ask it all together and get your input. Thanks!
BravoZero
05-03-2011, 03:41 PM
Ehh... I would not take a purple BOV even if it was given to me.
First, You're gonna run into fitment issue with your current RA engine bay here in the picture.
And the way it is design looks like bov is taking hot air before Intercooler vs after intercooler on ours & evos. idk the pro vs con with that setup...
http://www.cxracing.com/product/cxracing23/KIT-EVO10-BOV009/images/8.jpg
Purple can be painted. lol
What fitment issues? Anything that an adapter couldn't fix?
From the site:
"This kit is totally designed from ground up, unlike stock piping kit or other piping kit, which has a long BOV recirculation, this kit provisions BOV very close to intake and has a short recirculation route. Much better response."
So it was a design choice...
He was running it fine without a tune on the EvoX. Idk, super cheap but I don't want to buy something just to have it laying around. I want to make sure I can at least use something from it.
wwralliart77
05-04-2011, 07:50 AM
Let me just say there's a reason this guy is willing to let it all go for $100. I'm not a fan of CXRacing products, quality isn't that great. I had their intercooler installed on my RA; worst fitting piece I ever had. There were no attachment points to connect to and the ic literally was free-floating and only being held up by the ic pipes. I understand that your considering their whole kit and all I can advise is don't do it, you'll regret it as I. Best is to stick with quality even when it means you'll have to pay more. If you still want to proceed and install this kit then more to you. The kit should come with the couplers needed, if it doesn't lemme know and I'll give you a basic run down on what you'll need. You will need a tune once this is installed. You should be able to use everything minus the intake. The intake might need some tweaking before you can get it to fit correctly.
Well the guy offered to let me come over and test fit everything and even run it for awhile to see if it gives me any issues. He also said he has some extra couplers that might work to make this fit properly on the RA. I guess its worth a shot.
Also, the reason he is getting rid of it is because he got a better intake that i guess does not work with this kit?
Keep the input coming, I love information overload, forces me to think before doing. lol
MikeW-RRE
05-04-2011, 04:01 PM
If you had an X it would definately be worth a $100. But I think it would be too much work for any possible gains on a stock turbo to be worth the hassle. CX is a Chinese importer and manufacturer. One of the decent ones. They sell Chinese made stuff for Chinese made prices at least. They are local to us here in So Cal so we have been able to use some of their raw generic parts with decent luck. But we can touch and pick and choose in person. They have stuff in their warehouse that absolutely rocks for the price... and other stuff that is for looks only at best.
Mike W
I'm not really expecting much gains from it anyways, I'm more hoping that it will make a transition to an X FMIC easier in the future and also make my engine bay look a lot less cheap, lol. Even if it is just for looks now, I'd be willing to buy it for that reason at this price. My main concern is that it will not fit or that it will make my car run like garbage with no tune. I think I'm pretty much finding that it should fit, it just might take a little TLC.
My main question right now is will installing this cause my car to run worse then stock if I do not get it tuned?
I'd appreciate your input on it Mike, thanks :)
So I ended up buying this kit and now I get to mess around with it in person and see how it looks... It is a completely different approach to the BOV and a lot more simplified... I knew that before but seeing it in person made me fully appreciate it. The only problem with this is that I need to replace the pipe that comes out of the airbox and I'm not sure its the same shape or length as the one in the ralliart.
Visual aids:
This is how the kit looks; the pipe it replaces coming out of the airbox:
http://www.cxracing.com/product/cxracing23/KIT-EVO10-BOV009/images/8.jpg
This is the same pipe on the factory airboxes
http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/1111/ralliartairbox.jpg
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/9467/evoxairbox.jpg
Are these two pipes coming out of the factory airboxes the same shape and length? I'm starting to have my doubts and I'm thinking I might have to just have to use the pipe thats already there and get the proper length of tubing to connect the BOV to it. not a big deal but I'd like to use the entirety of the kit if possible.
Ended up just going for it and well, they don't seem to be the same... as I expected. lol. I just bought a different piece of hose for the recirculating end of the BOV and fastened it to the factory pipe and it works fine.
I also needed to extend the coupling from the UICP to the FMIC as expected. The hangers didn't line up quite right either, but bending them and the assistance of a hammer solved that :P
So far, the car is running nice and smooth with these pipes and BOV. No stuttering, strange idle or anything like that. The only issue I'm having is that I am getting quite a bit of compressor surge and while it sounds awesome, I know I need to take care of it. I'm going to loosen up the spring quite a bit more with an allen key and see if that takes care of it.
Here is a pic for you guys, note the lack of the LICP BOV pipe. The BOV is on the UICP. A much simpler design.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/231128_10150169610444355_508514354_6825332_6211747 _n.jpg
BravoZero
05-09-2011, 07:47 AM
Interesting... Any noticeable difference in performance?
not really, I wasn't expecting any though. but it at least has to be quite a bit lighter without all that extra piping. I still don't have the BOV dialed in properly yet and I may have some leaks somewhere too so I might notice a difference once I get everything sorted.
On that note, does anyone have any good methods for finding boost leaks? Right now I'm just sort of listening and guessing as to where they are.
wwralliart77
05-09-2011, 09:16 AM
So you deleted the existing hose that once connected to the lower end of the bypass valve or did you block it off? That could be the reason your getting compressor surge or a leak. Keep fiddling with it and keep us updated.
I installed a new LICP that was part of this kit, it does not have the fork in it that would normally lead up to the BPV. I don't think the placement of the BPV would cause an issue with surge, if anything it should help because it is now located much closer to the turbo.
boost leak test on our RA where our turbo sit by the firewall will be PITA.
you will have to take the whole intake system off to the turbo inlet,
place the boost leak tester where you took the intake off at the turbo inlet. So boost leak tester is secured to the turbo inlet (Intake side) hook up boost leak tester to compressor hose & run some air thru the system. You will then use spray bottle & spray some water around the all the parts you installed. If you have a leak water will splash back from leak.
About the Bov adjustment. What kind is it again?
I imagine you wouldn't want it too soft. Hopefully it holds the boost you're running.
IMO:
The way the BOV UICP system is design is kinda like anti-lag but will put more strain on the turbo & BOV. Because BOV doesnt run thru the intercooler. Hotter gas/air/oil.
Pro: maybe pick up faster after throttle off & back on?
Con: maybe shorten the life of your bov & turbo? Hot BOV Hot Turbo. BOV may vent back to intake before throttle body.
I could be wrong. Im just sharing my thoughts...
Thats cool, I'm the first person to run a setup like this on an RA that I know of so I'm all for open discussion :)
I ran it fairly hard for a little while and the pipes were only warm to the touch, definitely not hot so I don't think it would be a huge issue. You can test it out on your own pipes too. Touch the UICP after driving around, mine was usually just slightly warm but not any hotter then anything else in the engine bay really. I'm not even sure if the heat is coming from inside the pipe or just because its positioned so close to the engine. Whatever the case may be, I'm not too worried about it.
I'll have to look into getting a boost leak tester. Know any places I can pick one up that will be the right diameter? Would your average auto store carry them?
What could be happening is Bov opening up prematurely before the pressure gets all the way thru the UICP, FMIC, LICP & to Throttle body.
...I could be wrong... Is why it is not that hot or you got some rare Chinese special secret metal that resist/dissipate heat. :D
Touch your BOV & see how hot that is..
As far as Boost leak tester, you dont have to buy one off the shelve you can build one. Idk if pepboys/orileyKragen/Autozone carry em.
You would also need a good size compressor or you will have to wait for compressor til it recharge.
I remember seeing a thread on different forum about building your own Boost leak tester. I will find the link & post later.
I never remember my UICP being so hot that it hurt to touch it (which I would think would be a dangerous temperature to shoot back into the turbo) it was always just warm, even when I was stock. Thats what I'm trying to say. I haven't made an effort to touch my BPV but have fiddled with it while the car was running after driving and it must not have been hot if I was able to adjust it without burning myself. lol
I never remember my UICP being so hot that it hurt to touch it (which I would think would be a dangerous temperature to shoot back into the turbo) it was always just warm, even when I was stock. Thats what I'm trying to say. I haven't made an effort to touch my BPV but have fiddled with it while the car was running after driving and it must not have been hot if I was able to adjust it without burning myself. lol
uicp is outlet not inlet.
the flow of pressure goes from turbo to UICP to FMIC to LICP to Throttle body to intake manifold.
The flow doesnt go UICP to turbo.
So Inlet is from; intake-> turbo-> (wastegate-> exhaust manifold) uicp-> fmic-> licp-> throttle body-> intake manifold
In our RA Turbo outlet elbow is to UICP.
In previous Evo VIII & IX are opposite setup on UICP & LICP. Their UICP goes to the Throttle body & intake manifold.
I was talking about the recirculating BPV. The air that comes out of that when it opens up goes back into the turbo. In this setup its coming out of the UICP. Thats why I brought up the temp of that pipe, you were concerned it would be hot air but its not all that hot.
^hahaha ok. So time for boost leak test.
Here you go I found it.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/339529-how-boost-leak-tester-5-02-a.html
Thanks bud :)
Pretty much what I was expecting it would be. lol. I guess its time for a trip to home depot.
Thank me when you're boost leak free. :)
& you can thank me by helping others.
I threw something together from various home depot and auto store parts. Didn't exactly follow the guide but it should work ;)
on a side note, today I touched my pipes just to verify what I said before and nearly burnt my hand it was so hot, but then I went for another drive later for a similar length of time and it was just warm afterwards?! I have been adjusting the BPV so that might explain the fluctuation in temperature.
I'm starting to get annoyed at my BPV. I'm having a hard time telling if I set it properly. I've loosened it to the point where it isn't surging anymore but I can't even hear it opening up... if it is, its quieter than the stock one which doesn't seem right.
Alright guys, I'm at a loss. I just loosened the BOV so much, the screw actually came out. I finger tightened that back and finger tightened the bolt and I'm still getting surge. I also put a hose clamp on the vacuum line going into the BOV thinking maybe I was leaking there... no go.
Is this BOV just way too tight even completely loosened for my car? I'm reading about 10lbs of boost max at the moment off my gauge if that helps at all.
What did you boost gauge read before the CXR parts?
Does it always read 10lbs of boost after CXR parts?
Did you tighten all the couplers & clamps?
10lbs of boost with BOV loosen all the way?
I can't answer that question properly because I used to have my boost gauge in the wrong spot. I had it measuring the intake air (the vacuum hose after the intake instead of the one coming out of the intake manifold) but if thats any reflection of actual boost, it was reading about 10psi from there too.
I found out this BOV was configured for a minimum of 20lbs of boost... it has two springs. I just opened it up and removed a spring and I'm about to put it back together. This should put it in the 10s range and hopefully fix my issue. It should in theory. I'm hopeful :)
Just thought I'd update this. I've reinstalled the BOV with only one spring and adjusted it so I'm no longer surging. I also found a leak because the coupling fastener actually popped off while I was testing so I fixed that up.
I'm now getting up to about 13 psi and it tapers off to a little under 10psi towards the top of the RPMs. How does that sound to you guys? Do I still have a leak somewhere?
wwralliart77
05-13-2011, 10:07 AM
Sounds about right to me.
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