Who else here tuned their own car?

[KyleKitchen]

I know there's gotta be more than just Steve and I.
I want to get more info over here onto this site.
I'm going to start posting more self tuning info/questions over here.

I'm interested in seeing what my fellow Ralliart owners know! ;)
Maybe I can learn a thing or two over here as well.

[BravoZero]

I know there's gotta be more than just Steve and I.
I want to get more info over here onto this site.
I'm going to start posting more self tuning info/questions over here.

I'm interested in seeing what my fellow Ralliart owners know! ;)
Maybe I can learn a thing or two over here as well.

Ha, I'm too scared to do my own tuning. $27k isn't pocket change, and if I blow the motor because I tweaked a value incorrectly, I might have to run the car off a bridge with myself in it. :D

[KyleKitchen]

That's the amazing thing about the Evo/Ralliart community.
There is such a vast amout of information out there on other forums it's kinda hard to fuck it up.
There's a 160 page long PDF dedicated to teaching you the basics on how to tune specifically Evo X's and Ralliarts.
There is also hundreds of pages spread across a few hundred threads with other owners posting their tunes or a specific map and having other users cross check their work.

Plus EvoScan and EcuFlash are 2 of the best programs ever made. Period.
As long as you are logging the correct addresses for your car, you're fine.
EvoScan monitors EVERYTHING.

Bryan, Golden and Tephra are constantly updating information, ROMs and adding tables to EcuFlash.

There is even threads that teach you how to tune just your MIVEC, Timing, Boost, Waste Gate Duty Cycle's, etc.
And people post up their maps and explain how it worked for them so that you can try it and adjust it to your car and your liking.

There is just too much information available to able to fuck up the car by changing one map.
Just read, read, read, learn and experiment.

I promise you, learning to tune your car is an invaluable tool.
Be careful though, it gets addicting.
You wont regret it. ;)

[BravoZero]

I wish I were that cool... :(

I do have that large PDF file on my computer at home, I'll have to revisit that.

The biggest reason why I'm afraid to do any tuning is the transmission. Since the values have to be adjusted accordingly, I fear that I will throw something off that will damage the transmission in some way.

I also need to figure out WTF is up with my computer not wanting to log stuff properly. I know it's not the Tactrix module, I can do standalone logging with the microSD card and it logs everything properly, so maybe I'm missing something in EvoScan.

[SubjecttoChange]

I wish I were that cool... :(

I do have that large PDF file on my computer at home, I'll have to revisit that.

The biggest reason why I'm afraid to do any tuning is the transmission. Since the values have to be adjusted accordingly, I fear that I will throw something off that will damage the transmission in some way.

Same... I don't have the confidence that my SST is robust enough. I got all of my mods ready, but then stopped. I ran through all of the scenarios of my trans dying and me paying for it because of the tune and decided not to- whether or not it was my/the tune's fault I don't want Mitsu to whine at me any more than they already may due to my CB and Evo IC.

Should have gotten a GSR.

[KyleKitchen]

Merlin's guide is a great place to start.
And if you go on the other forums there is entire threads on how to tune the lower and upper bound timing maps and thats the big thing that makes the tune safe for the SST.
I was scared at first too but these cars really aren't as fragile as everyone makes them out to be. There are a lot of safety nets built into the car too.
It's literally almost impossible to break something after just one pull if you're logging it correctly.

If EvoScan isn't working for you, make sure you have the right addresses. The ones that come with EvoScan are wrong.
Bryan has a thread on the other forum with all of the right addresses.

[MTZL]

I will get to it once I have another 4b11T with TC-SST (maybe from MR)
I wonder if the dealer will even sell it to me. lol.

I would love to leave my current RA 4b11t & TC-SST for DD.
Not have to worry about finding another Engine & SST if anything happens.
Less down time.

Yes, 4b11t & TC-SST is not fragile at all.

[BravoZero]

Merlin's guide is a great place to start.
And if you go on the other forums there is entire threads on how to tune the lower and upper bound timing maps and thats the big thing that makes the tune safe for the SST.
I was scared at first too but these cars really aren't as fragile as everyone makes them out to be. There are a lot of safety nets built into the car too.
It's literally almost impossible to break something after just one pull if you're logging it correctly.

If EvoScan isn't working for you, make sure you have the right addresses. The ones that come with EvoScan are wrong.
Bryan has a thread on the other forum with all of the right addresses.

You might have nailed my problem then if the EvoScan values are incorrect for what I'm logging. I have a long weekend ahead, I'll try to look into getting that problem resolved since I'll need to log how she's running with the X intercooler setup I'll be installing tomorrow.

[KyleKitchen]

I will get to it once I have another 4b11T with TC-SST (maybe from MR)
I wonder if the dealer will even sell it to me. lol.

I would love to leave my current RA 4b11t & TC-SST for DD.
Not have to worry about finding another Engine & SST if anything happens.
Less down time.

Yes, 4b11t & TC-SST is not fragile at all.

I'm not saying you can beat the shit out of it with a sledge hammer then back out into your driveway and rev the shit out of it to 7k then slam it into reverse then rev it to 7k again and slam it into drive and take off like speed racer bouncing off the rev limiter before shifting each gear.
But it's not as easy to ruin your SST when tuning it as people think.
And the 4B11 is actually a pretty strong motor......... Minus the timing chain. :rolleyes:

Just read, read, read and log, log, log.


You might have nailed my problem then if the EvoScan values are incorrect for what I'm logging. I have a long weekend ahead, I'll try to look into getting that problem resolved since I'll need to log how she's running with the X intercooler setup I'll be installing tomorrow.

Yeah, I made the same mistake at first too until Steve corrected me and showed me what the right values were.

Here are the correct ones. (http://forums.evolutionm.net/09-ralliart-engine-turbo-drivetrain/512546-2009-ralliart-evoscan-addresses-info.html)

[RocketRay]

That's the amazing thing about the Evo/Ralliart community.

There's a 160 page long PDF dedicated to teaching you the basics on how to tune specifically Evo X's and Ralliarts.


160 pages just for the basics? Thanks, I'll leave it to the professionals. :)

[zeRep85]

Very nice!

Tuning MEET @ KYLES HOUSE!!! w00t w00t!

1. zeRep

[BravoZero]

Yeah, I made the same mistake at first too until Steve corrected me and showed me what the right values were.

Here are the correct ones. (http://forums.evolutionm.net/09-ralliart-engine-turbo-drivetrain/512546-2009-ralliart-evoscan-addresses-info.html)

Fantastic, thanks bro!

[KyleKitchen]

Buuuump.
I want some self tuners to trade ideas with!

[tencents]

Where can i find this 160pg PDF?

[KyleKitchen]

Where can i find this 160pg PDF?

Right here.
Merlin's Guide (http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/tuning/merlin/Merlins%20Ralliart%20+%20EvoX%20TUNING%20GUIDE_V2-0.pdf)

[MikeW-RRE]

Merlin's guide is also mirrored from EVOScan's website:

http://www.evoscan.com/ecuflash/Merlins%20Ralliart%20and%20EvoX%20TUNING%20GUIDE%2 0Version%20K.pdf

For yous RalliArt guys that are self tooning, if you schedule the dyno time with me when it is available and you can play on the RRE Dynapack AWD dyno with adult supervision. Steven has done it. He has been nerding out on some VE tables and was able to show me some tips. I stop by and check out his numbers and graphs and give him some tips and direction.

We normally charge $200 for outside tooners to use the Dynapack for a tuning session. For you brave RalliArt guys I'll do $100. You just help busting wheels on and off.

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/rre_project_car/on_dyno-6-2011/ondyno-00.jpg

Mike W

[KyleKitchen]

Merlin's guide is also mirrored from EVOScan's website:

http://www.evoscan.com/ecuflash/Merlins%20Ralliart%20and%20EvoX%20TUNING%20GUIDE%2 0Version%20K.pdf

For yous RalliArt guys that are self tooning, if you schedule the dyno time with me when it is available and you can play on the RRE Dynapack AWD dyno with adult supervision. Steven has done it. He has been nerding out on some VE tables and was able to show me some tips. I stop by and check out his numbers and graphs and give him some tips and direction.

We normally charge $200 for outside tooners to use the Dynapack for a tuning session. For you brave RalliArt guys I'll do $100. You just help busting wheels on and off.

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/rre_project_car/on_dyno-6-2011/ondyno-00.jpg

Mike W

That's actually amazingly cheap!
You'll be hearing from me soon Mike!

[tencents]

Right here.
Merlin's Guide (http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/tuning/merlin/Merlins%20Ralliart%20+%20EvoX%20TUNING%20GUIDE_V2-0.pdf)

Merlin's guide is also mirrored from EVOScan's website:

http://www.evoscan.com/ecuflash/Merlins%20Ralliart%20and%20EvoX%20TUNING%20GUIDE%2 0Version%20K.pdf

For yous RalliArt guys that are self tooning, if you schedule the dyno time with me when it is available and you can play on the RRE Dynapack AWD dyno with adult supervision. Steven has done it. He has been nerding out on some VE tables and was able to show me some tips. I stop by and check out his numbers and graphs and give him some tips and direction.

We normally charge $200 for outside tooners to use the Dynapack for a tuning session. For you brave RalliArt guys I'll do $100. You just help busting wheels on and off.

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/rre_project_car/on_dyno-6-2011/ondyno-00.jpg

Mike W

Thanks guys... will study this.

[sstevojr]

The reason I don't post any tuning topics here is the lack of background info. Everything relevant is on EvoM and EvoX, so it makes it difficult to bring individual topics over here. I know the first time I post anything remotely technical it will bring in droves of what/how/when/where/why questions. And that will just be more links back to M&X.
But if anyone has any specific questions, there are always knowledgeable minds wandering around....

[KyleKitchen]

My whole goal is to make this a information rich site.

So that people like me wont have to forum jump all day to find info on something that should be on this site to begin with.
Anything relating to the Ralliart should be on this site, whether it be tuning, parts, or the molecular structure of the paint.....

Of course they are a few brilliant minds on the other forums that no one could ever replace, but this site does need more info being spread around.

I'm trying to get more knowledgeable people out of the wood work and speaking up so that more people can start posting topics, asking questions and spreading info here as well.

That is the kind of thing that gets people curious and will get them into things like this. :D

[sstevojr]

I don't feel right moving over topics I didn't start, but I'll tell you what:
Just for YOU I'll start throwing my latest exploits at mind-numbing insanety up here as well :p

[KyleKitchen]

I don't feel right moving over topics I didn't start, but I'll tell you what:
Just for YOU I'll start throwing my latest exploits at mind-numbing insanety up here as well :p

Do you feel right leaving an entire community in the dark?!?!?!
Neglected, like Ethiopia? :(

I love you for your future contributions and sexy ass.......... sportback. ;)

[KyleKitchen]

Bump??????
http://i2.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/000/082/493/Forever_Alone.png

[Onyx]

Hi, new to these forums, new to tuning as well - just bought a Tactrix cable a week ago, had an RA for several months prior... Car is completely stock.

I think I'm using it right, treating the GST basemap as its namesake - a base, in which to further refine things. Merlin's Evo X & Ralliart tuning guide has been my 'bible', as I'm fiddling around experimenting.

My goals is really not to make more power... I know it sounds weird. The car has plenty as it is. I'm more into economy. eg. I've reduced the rev limiter to 5.8krpm, reduced boost to be between stock and GST basemap settings.

Since I'm in the land downunder, the car is specified by Mitsubishi to run on 98RON. Another aim of mine is to deconstruct the GST basemap for USDM 91 octane (95 equivalent here) and understand the relevant settings which have changed for the poorer grade fuel and apply it to my own ECU map. So far all I can see is very slightly reduced timing advance.

[sstevojr]

http://blogs.uct.ac.za/gallery/669/You_did_what.jpg

You don't want to rev out the engine, you don't want boost, and you want to conserve gas
You bought the WRONG car.

[BravoZero]

Should have bought a Prius.

[Onyx]

Sorry, should have worded it more accurately. I'm into tuning to optimise efficiency, not necessarily chasing absolute peak numbers in HP/torque. If I could have close to stock output using a poorer grade of fuel (with it being cheaper), I'd be more inclined to drive it more! ;)

So please, continue bashing the guy that should've bought a Prius if you must - but let's not derail this thread, get it back on track and see if there's anything we could all gain from it all.

Right now I'm working on cam timing (ie. MIVEC maps). I've downloaded the current and past versions of GST basemaps and they seem to all have the same profile. Inside Merlin's Evo X and Ralliart tuning guide there's the JDM Evo IX MIVEC map diagram; but I don't exactly know how much of that is applicable being 4G63 vs 4B11 - totally different engines. The few other sources on MIVEC tuning has basically been in agreement that it should be advanced most at peak boost and near zero at redline. I'm trying different things daily, reading up on the half dozen or so ECU tuning guides that Google has directed me to, and making a composite of its averages, also compared with the stock (very basic) timing map.

While MIVEC tuning is predominantly changing of the cam timing, there's speculation that the cams changeover to a higher lift profile at 3500RPM. Can anyone shed any light on this? Or is this something that only affects the naturally aspirated 4B11 and 4B12s?

[razorlab]

While MIVEC tuning is predominantly changing of the cam timing, there's speculation that the cams changeover to a higher lift profile at 3500RPM.

There is no changing in lift profile on the cams in the 4B11T. It's just retard/advance and all the good/bad that can come with it.

[tencents]

i've went from stock pill to boost pill and i'm getting knocksum 1 and 2 around 1200rpm and load 60.. is this ok or am i just worrying for nothing?
According to virtual dyno, i am able to hit peak boost at 21 22 psi, but seems to hang around 20psi all the way...
any word of wisdom would be appreciate .... i'm a real noob at this...

[crak]

i've went from stock pill to boost pill and i'm getting knocksum 1 and 2 around 1200rpm and load 60.. is this ok or am i just worrying for nothing?
According to virtual dyno, i am able to hit peak boost at 21 22 psi, but seems to hang around 20psi all the way...
any word of wisdom would be appreciate .... i'm a real noob at this...

I just read about this on the forums and its nothing to worry about.

[KyleKitchen]

i've went from stock pill to boost pill and i'm getting knocksum 1 and 2 around 1200rpm and load 60.. is this ok or am i just worrying for nothing?
According to virtual dyno, i am able to hit peak boost at 21 22 psi, but seems to hang around 20psi all the way...
any word of wisdom would be appreciate .... i'm a real noob at this...

Any low knock count under 80 load is nothing to worry about really.
You're not putting enough pressure on the motor to damage it.

21-22psi is okay for peak and thats very good if you're holding 20 to redline on a RA turbo.

Are you using a boost pill or 3-port?

[tencents]

just a boost pill, what if you get knock sum 1 @ load 198, 6300rpm? Is it safe to say any random knocksum under 3 is ok? I think it occurred at end of 3rd gear WOT run... when i lifted off the gas?
Sorry boost peaks 21.7psi, actually drops at 5000rpm and finishes around 17psi.

[richardh]

just a boost pill, what if you get knock sum 1 @ load 198, 6300rpm?

Ignore.

Is it safe to say any random knocksum under 3 is ok?

Random knocksum under 3... yep, safe to say.

Rich

PS. I'm not a pro tuner... I just stalk them online. :p

[KyleKitchen]

I'm not a pro tuner... I just stalk them online.

Hahaha
:D

[tencents]

:D
Hey Rich which part of Australia are u from?

[bunnishiwa]

Woot - Tactrix arrived this afternoon, so will begin logging this weekend for a week or so before upping things :D

[tencents]

Woot - Tactrix arrived this afternoon, so will begin logging this weekend for a week or so before upping things :D

Congrats my man... you won't be disappointed popping the pill :rolleyes:
Keep an eye out on boost lvls with UR boostpills, a few ppl tend to overboost. I think all pills are the same size, its more a matter of individual cars. Have fun... cause i did :p

[Uemoto-JP]

Right now I'm working on cam timing (ie. MIVEC maps). I've downloaded the current and past versions of GST basemaps and they seem to all have the same profile. Inside Merlin's Evo X and Ralliart tuning guide there's the JDM Evo IX MIVEC map diagram; but I don't exactly know how much of that is applicable being 4G63 vs 4B11 - totally different engines. The few other sources on MIVEC tuning has basically been in agreement that it should be advanced most at peak boost and near zero at redline. I'm trying different things daily, reading up on the half dozen or so ECU tuning guides that Google has directed me to, and making a composite of its averages, also compared with the stock (very basic) timing map.

Holy Thread Revival!

Sounds like you are going thru a similar process as me. I did find those same tuning guides, but felt that some of the information is wanting.

I lived in Japan until recently for 13 years (plan on goin back!). I found that most perfromance car tunes would fail smog testing here.

(Anything I say here is subject to change as I learn more, common sense dictates every person to do a little leg work and veryify these claims. If you blow up your car or die, I am not responsible)

What you should look into for the Stock turbo Ralliart is the JDM EVO X MIVEC MAPs. They are in the V2.0 of the Merlin guide, the warmup maps you have to get from ECUFLASH, but you could use the stock Ralliart ones also. The only changes would be in the upper RPM/LOAD ranges. The stock EVO X turbo is a twin scroll with requisit exhaust header. Ours is not.

The EVO header will do alot of scavenging, due to seperated exhaust pulses, to spool the turbo up earlier, but also treat the motor as almost Naturaly Asperaited. Hence the apperance of alot of overlap in the upper RPM on the intake and exhaust maps.

This all needs to be paired back or removed on the exhaust side (remove the retard), and the intake side needs to be retarded to alow more cylinder filling. The change-over for all this to start happening is somewhere around 5000 RPM. Boost may appear to be droping, but you are actully filling the cylinders better, as the MAF sensor will show and INCREASE in ingested air. Do not turn up the boost as you are alreadying filling the cylinders nicely and the stock turbo may just be blowing superheated air if you turn it up more.

I've been working on my tune now for the better part of two months, as before that I was always satisfied with the COBB ots tunes (Stage2 v200) until the new ones that came out recently (Stage3 v300) didn't feel the same to me. COBB before had tuned all the MIVEC maps, but the new one just had the intake. What's the point of the DOHC VVT if you are not using it?

I'm not finished with my maps yet, but I'll post some of what I got in the next few days. (I'm not at home now).

Some of the side benifits so far:

SPARKLY THROTTLE RESPONSE- Whaaap, Whaaaaap, WaaaaAAAAp Acceleration! WOW! All the hills in the area just seem to melt and turn into mole hills under the onslought! The sound of my turbo-back, almost cat-less, UR muffler reverberating off the neighbor's houses as I blow by in a wide open pull is pure ambrosia for the ears! (Urban terrorist is some of the nicer things I hear coming out of the local Police station)
( www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU6qdT4IP_o )

Fuel economy!- I driving 160 miles a week right now, but half that is in anger up hills and around bends. I'm getting about 15mpg. Upper LOAD fueling using older COBB timing and fuel maps was ~11:1 AFR in v200, more like 10:1 in v300 now. I've recently put the v300 timing/fuel maps back on, but turned lean spoon back on. (I'm convinced these cars can handle 12:1 AFRs reliably, but have to be professional tuned on a DYNO with wideband.) Since I don't care about NOx emmisions where I live (in a forest, good for plants), I've been messing with mid-range overlap of the JDM map. There is less pumping loss now the car really wants to pull in the mid range load areas, good for maintenance throttle at the track when you don't want to go WOT! There is also a whole bunch of info about Internal EGR and it's uses that I didn't know before, very useful!


There's alot that I will probably wright up and post later with pictures, but I need to be at my home computer, all my resources are there. I will not be posting completed maps ever (some kid will drop it on his un-modified car and blow it up). I'm learing just like eveyone else here, and the ideas that I had first walking in are not the same as now, it's a continuous EVOLUTION. My head is so full of stuff, I need an outlet somewhere where I can throw ideas at the wall and use what sticks. We are so deep in the boonies out here, there aren't many like-minded people to associate with (but you do find them!).

Some other words of advice...
-Try to do all your WOT pulls up hills, you will find a problem very fast. So what you can go fast on a flat surface, look at the first turn at the Circuit of the Americus in Texas. You don't want Knock going up hills under excessive boost load. The flats will take care of themselves.
-Don't trust the first WOT in gears above 2 from 2000~6500. I'll get the odd couple knock events the first time I reflash on the first WOT.
-Don't chase the odd knock event under 3, If it's real knock it might look like this in the log 7,7,6,5,5,4,3,3,3,2,1 going down the coluom in the log, and it happens at around the same RPM range (for me, it's around 5500~5800, still figuring it out.)
-Other people or cars on or near the road? Time to take a break. Last thing you want to do is hit someones kid. Find a seclude back road, do your tesing there, but always treat any car/person you can see with respect. Don't bomb past them becasue they be helping to dig your butt out of a ditch latter. If I think I see anyone else, the foot is off the gas.
-Drive at 7/10s, there is no reason to take that bend like it's a qualifing lap. WOTs are a little different (under 100, uhh, I mean 60 miles and hour) you can probalby do eveything you need to know in 3rd maybe 4th gear, but you might have to check 5th somewhere you trust is safe, like the drag strip.

[StigofSAE]

Hey Im giving tuning a try as well. I'm good at working on car mechanically but this computer tuning does scare me a bit. My problem right now with my 2010 sportback is running a post pill and gst map. When I log in evoscan my boost numbers are all negative somewhere around -8. Anyone know whats going wrong? also what should I be looking for as far as over boost?

[KyleKitchen]

Hey Im giving tuning a try as well. I'm good at working on car mechanically but this computer tuning does scare me a bit. My problem right now with my 2010 sportback is running a post pill and gst map. When I log in evoscan my boost numbers are all negative somewhere around -8. Anyone know whats going wrong? also what should I be looking for as far as over boost?

You need the correct addresses for your car.

Download it from Golden's site HERE (http://www.goldenevo.com)

Then you should be able to log correctly.

As far as over boost goes.
I haven't looked at one in a long time, but I'm pretty sure the GST maps with a boost pill target 20-21 psi.

So I'd consider consistently hitting 2.5+ psi over target a problem. (23.5+ psi)
Your boost limiter (fuel cut/limp mode) is probably somewhere around 26ish psi.

[Uemoto-JP]

The EVO header will do alot of scavenging, due to seperated exhaust pulses, to spool the turbo up earlier, but also treat the motor as almost Naturaly Asperaited. Hence the apperance of alot of overlap in the upper RPM on the intake and exhaust maps.

This all needs to be paired back or removed on the exhaust side (remove the retard), and the intake side needs to be retarded to alow more cylinder filling. The change-over for all this to start happening is somewhere around 5000 RPM. Boost may appear to be droping, but you are actully filling the cylinders better, as the MAF sensor will show and INCREASE in ingested air. Do not turn up the boost as you are alreadying filling the cylinders nicely and the stock turbo may just be blowing superheated air if you turn it up more.


There are reasons why we can't just "cut and paste" EVO X maps, and I think most of it revolves around the exhaust manifold.

Here's an excellent article explaining the twin scull issue, there are also aspects of timing and fueling that this article addresses...

http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-0906-twin-scroll-turbo-system-design/viewall.html

[Uemoto-JP]

I've attached some stuff for reference:

-The "Ralliart Degree Wheel" will show you visually how the camshaft rotate in relation to the crank. I only guessed on the reasonable range of ignition timing. Remember, you have to imagine in your head that this rotates around twice to complete the process. I also tend to "Start" the whole process at a non-standard point, as right after ignition. It's easier for me to understand it this way.

-"Dual_vvt-i (toyota)", "RPMvsloadgraph" are a way at looking at load and RPM. This is only really useful under NA conditions (off-boost), and not to be taken as scripture.

-the "mivec" pics are from Mitsubishi's MIVEC website. The "mivec Im 03" shows a slightly different load vs RPM map. They talk about a full retard exhaust cam under higher output. "mivec-turbo im 02" shows how the cams advance and retard as you look at the front of the engine.

[Uemoto-JP]

This JDM EVO MIVEC map posted on Evolution M by Bryan from GST. I found that this is a good STARTING place. BUT, there are some things to remember, because of the lack of the twin scroll, you can't carry that much overlap if any in the upper RPM ranges (above 5000~5500) in the exhaust and intake maps after 100~140 load. There isn't a magic number unless you have a dyno in the garage to test on.

I can say that GST maps seem to be a good place to start, as some overlap feels good during early boost phases on the butt-dyno. The columns of overlap in the "cruise" range of 40~80 make good EGR for economy, and have not seen a detrimental effect for this in the MPG department (no metrics to back this up), and makes for sparkly throttle response!

Right now, what I've been doing is combining different parts of different maps to fit my car. I currently run a turbo-back divorced waste gate exhaust from UR with high-power, high-flow cat. UR front mount intercooler and related piping.

I've used COBB tuning from the beginning and have no intentions of changing anytime soon, and do plan on a tune with them at a future date. I really liked the Stage 2 v200 tune for my car, so I've been combining that with some GST map portions, EVO portions, and "Upgrades" to various maps made by Mitsubishi (SST torque changes and ramp rates for example) in later model years and seem to have hit upon something that I really like.

Now, before people start screaming "Blaspheme!" and "Sacrilege!", or "You're going to blow your motor", realize this... COBB already did the working modded the MAP and MAF maps, timing and fuel in the Stage 2 v200 tune. They even had an Intake and Exhaust MIVEC map! (they chucked the exhaust map for whatever reason in v300) I just refined it further with sanctioned Mitsu maps from later model years for the same car. The car feels much better in shifting, Normal or Sports!

Stage 2 v200 was for a high flow turbo back. The Stage 3 v300 doesn't mention this clearly, and it shows in the map (Exhaust MIVEC missing?)
I'm not getting any knock, as I never did running the Stage 2 V200 93 octane map, and I still "feel" F-a-F. My currently evolving setup feels safe, and I'm open to anyone to look at it. If you follow file sizes from COBB, the current crop of Of-the-shelf tunes run about 8 kb, mine is currently pushing 16 kb; that's how much stuff I've changed, mostly from cut-and-pasting together new maps. I'm really expecting when I finally hit the dyno, that there WILL be gains found during the tune, maybe some for-the-better changes. There's really nothing that I'm doing to individual maps, I'm just using well educated guesses on making targeted changes (like pairing the same timing and fuel maps from the same tune, SMART!). Basically, I'm allowing myself to use the v200 map with the COBB 3-port waste gate.

This might seem crazy, but I just don't have easy access to a dyno. I'm just making due with what I have and listening to the feel and sound of the motor, and how the car reacts, painfully acute knock sensor logging, and it all just feels like it's right. I have an innovate wideband plus a tuning laptop from an earlier Skyline tuning project of mine that I'll be breaking out at a later date after a Japan trip, if I can find everything. I don't think the wideband is going to show me much, but it will let me tune to a 11.5 AFR for some better WOT economy, and allow me to check the lean spool. Also, I don't live in CA, so I can see about messing with cruise economy, how about a 30 MPG ralliart? (^_^)

[danike]

This is the best thread I've read for months and I'm on all the forums. There are a lot of Ralliart owners with GST basemap who want to start tweaking the tune to improve bits. This is how it happens. People sharing ideas. Love it. Keep it coming guys!