How To: Install a BOV

[Blaze]

Without starting a huge debate, I will say with all confidence that the best valve both for performance and the money for the RA is going to be an OEM unit off Evo IX MR or the new X series.

- They'll hold the boost you want to run
- They're very inexpensive compared to aftermarket
- They open and close with the same reaction speed as ...well an OEM valve.

The plastic valves are prone to failure as you start to turn up the boost or just over time. This can lead to performance issues associated with your typical boost leak.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_1a.jpg

Installation is a snap. There are two clamps that need to be undone. You can use either a phillips screw driver or a 10mm socket wrench. Loosen the clamps and slide them back over the two hoses so that they don't fall if/when you need to wrench the valve around to get it off.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_1b.jpg

Replace the valve in the same direction as the original. Should you install the valve backwards, you will hear an abnormal amount of compressor surge from the turbo. It will sound like a mini helicopter is making a landing on your turbo. If you forget which way the valve goes, just remember the brass hat needs to be facing your hood and not your radiator.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_3%7E2.jpg

I used a BOV off my old Evo 8 MR. The nipple is facing a slightly different angle. And being the cheap SOB that I am, I did not want to invest 30 cents to buy a new vacuum hose. At any rate, because of this, the line came up slightly short. You need to make certain that you do not crimp the vacuum line. To avoid this, I pivoted the valve slightly to the left until the hose has a smooth, unobstructed connection.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_5%7E0.jpg

Slide the hose clamps back on and snug everything down. You don't need to torque the be-jesus out of the clamps. Make sure they're tight, but don't tear the threads on the clamps by over torquing them.

This is a very simple mod that won't break your bank and will support higher performance tuning as you move onward and upward.

Happy Modding!

[TheBlackBeast]

Beautiful write Blaze! Thanks for sharing.

[Blaze]

Beautiful write Blaze! Thanks for sharing.


"Sharing is caring," but keep clear of my lunchables.... Them are mines!

[CarGuy]

Thanks Blaze! Nice to see you here! What else do you have planned for your Ralliart?

[dmitchell]

Looks like an easy tweak.

Would this BOV fit on the 2009 RA?

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product.php?productid=191&cat=172&page=1

[MTZL]

Looks like an easy tweak.

Would this BOV fit on the 2009 RA?

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product.php?productid=191&cat=172&page=1

Yeah That one will work "Plug n Play". Make sure you tighten all clamps so you dont have boost leaks.

[dmitchell]

Cool, thanks. When you say "plug n play".... if a BOV was not p'n'p, what would you have to do?

[MikeW-RRE]

Some BOVs have different flanges that require custom welding. Others dont allow the air to be recirculated back in. If the air blows out the car runs poorly and stalls. Many aftermarket BOVs on the X and RalliArt will cause airflow fault codes. This direct bolt on of the EVO X BOV to the RalliArt so that makes it "PNP".

Still, there is nothing wrong with the stock RalliArt BOV. Yes it is made of plastic. But it has the same spring pressure as the EVO X BOV, same O-ring seal as the EVO X BOV, same diafram diameter as the EVO X BOV... changing it out will make no power. If anyone wants to try to proove otherwise, I have the free dyno time for you to try.

Many plastic BOVs do suck. The 2G Eclipse BOV would not hold over 13 psi for example. It had no o-ring seal and a weak spring. The Bosch plastic BOV that is used on many European cars also leaks. The RalliArt BOV is not one of these.

If anyone still has a hard on for a EVO X BOV, I do keep them in stock. $160.

Mike W

[MTZL]

Thanks MikeW RRE. I still rock the stock RA BOV but I had bought Evo IX JDM BOV for $100 used havent install anything yet waiting & saving up money to complete partlist for install & tune. If you was in the Bay area I would take you up on the offer to make sure what I bought doesnt leak & ok for the X Turbo swap.

I met Nardine with White EVO VIII that got his car done by RRE. I must say it looks Super Clean.

[MikeW-RRE]

If you get an EVO X BV for a good price knowing you will be going berzerk with mods later on, no one can take that form you. You got your purpose and rock on with my full blessing!. I just dont want anyone with a stock turbo buyng a X BOV thinking they will be faster or sound cooler.

Mike W

[CarGuy]

Plus the plastic stock one is lighter than the metal one, right? Weight savings to the extreme.

[Xorro]

Will there be any performance increase using the EVO BOV over the stock RA one?

[Blaze]

Will there be any performance increase using the EVO BOV over the stock RA one?

No, they have been tested by RRE and found to perform the same.

I do not like plastic pieces in a turbo charged environment. Over time, heat + plastic = LOSE. So for me, this was a preventive measure and one less thing I will ever have to worry about.

[MikeW-RRE]

Originally I did some back to back testing on a stock RalliArt and there was no difference. Another car running 20 psi and tapering down also no difference.

I re-did the testing at higher boost levels (over 20 psi) and the EVO X BOV does hold 1.5-2.0 psi at some parts of the rev range. On a tuned RalliArt running with a boost pill it does make a difference. I suspect there are also slight differences between various stock RalliArt and EVO BOVs.

Bottom line... I have an EVO X BOV on my RalliArt now :-) ('cause that's how I roll)

Mike W

[MikeW-RRE]

I was a baller and threw down the cash on a longer vacuum hose to connect it to the intake manifold. The top of the BOV with the vacuum fitting is clocked so that the vacuum fitting is further away. I used 6mm silicone hose.

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/tech/evoxbov-02.jpg

Mike W

[Jdmboi]

Blaze that was the easy's way to tell /show people how to install the BOV

[MTZL]

I was a baller and threw down the cash on a longer vacuum hose to connect it to the intake manifold. The top of the BOV with the vacuum fitting is clocked so that the vacuum fitting is further away. I used 6mm silicone hose.

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/tech/evoxbov-02.jpg

Mike W

bALLAH RIFIC! NICE LOOKING HO SE YOU GOT THERE! & DO I see Custom UICP?

[MikeW-RRE]

I'll see your thread hijack and raise you one:

Yes it is a custom aluminum upper I/C pipe. Lots of other crustom stuffs too. Gotta make a thread one of these days.

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/rre_project_car/2010-05-underhood/underhood-01.jpg



Mike W

[geargrinder]

I'm going to thread jack too. It looks like a stock intake, but you must have something fancy in there. RRE stealth intake?

[TheBlackBeast]

Also, your plastic valve cover is a different color than mine. I like my black one better... :D

[MikeW-RRE]

270 whp through the stock intake and filter. Intakes are not restricting the stock airbox while still running a stock turbo. Stoopid turbo compressor wheel is tiny tiny compared to the stock intake.

Silver cover on silver car looks nice. I've done blue cover on a blue car. You have a black car... black cover for you!

Mike W

[MikeW-RRE]

Here is a back to back test of a plastic RalliArt BOV and an EVO 9/10 metal BOV done on a tuned ~340 whp EVO X. The car was all dynoed and tuned, then I took the EVO BOV off and installed the RalliArt plastic BOV.

Red line is the metal BOV, the teal colored line is the plastic BOV:

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/tech/bovtest/evox-test.jpg


Here is a back to back test of a plastic RalliArt BOV and an EVO 9/10 metal BOV done on a tuned ~270 whp RalliArt. The car was all dynoed and tuned, then I took the EVO BOV off and installed the RalliArt plastic BOV.

The red and green lines are the metal BOV, the blue and purple lines are the plastic BOV:

http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/tech/bovtest/ralliart-test.jpg


Blaze... maybe put this info into the first post?

Mike W

[roversix]

Nice how to. I put it to good use:

http://i1047.photobucket.com/albums/b474/roversix/Build/IMAGE_072.jpg Before.

http://i1047.photobucket.com/albums/b474/roversix/Build/IMAGE_079.jpg After.

Now... question for you all. Blaze, you mentioned if installed backwards, you'd hear a mini-helicopter-like sound from the turbo.

I hear something like a feint, deep flutter in the low RPM range. As you can tell by the picture, I doubt I pulled a backwards install.

I DID, play with the air filter to see how dirty it was (just putting this in there because that's all I did extra).

Is the flutter normal after putting the EVO 9 BOV in?

Thanx in advance, guys.

[BravoZero]

I have the same exact one on my RA and I do not hear any abnormal sounds in any RPM range. Double check your vacuum line and how tight the clamps are, then check to make sure the air box is completely fastened on the bottom, that's a common thing to happen and it creates a weird noise.

[roversix]

Bravo, I appreciate the quick reply. So I went ahead and put a k&n filter in and the deep growl, kind of flutter is louder, along with the awesome turbo woosh after gas pedal release.

Clamps and vac tubes are good. Staring at my air box, I'm pretty sure that is the culprit. Having kind of a hard time getting the bottom aligned right.

With the filter in, toward the bottom end, should the box appear shut, or should it slope open slightly... I'm looking like the latter for my airbox right now.

Are there even clamps at the bottom of our air box? I'm almost 99% sure that the noise is being caused by my stupidy with the air filter.

[roversix]

Panic over, guys. I resealed the airbox incorrectly... there's two holes on the bottom of the left side of our airbox that you need to align and insert with tabs on the right bottom side...

everything sounds normal :)

on a lighter note... I want a open element intake now, that turbo woosh was freakin' sexy.

[BravoZero]

Panic over, guys. I resealed the airbox incorrectly... there's two holes on the bottom of the left side of our airbox that you need to align and insert with tabs on the right bottom side...

everything sounds normal :)

on a lighter note... I want a open element intake now, that turbo woosh was freakin' sexy.

Good deal, I figured that might have been your issue. I had the same thing happen after installing my K&N. That stock airbox is a pain in the ass, lol.