Evo X intercooler: Upgrade to OEM

[Blaze]

I have a bunch of OEM and aftermarket parts from stage 1 of my Evo project. Most of them should be applicable to the RA. The metal BOV fit, along with a test pipe (for track days). Not I thought I'd see how well the intercooler would fit.

This write up will assume basic mechanical knowledge on the part of the reader as well as a familiarity with the RA. At a later point, I may go back to label every nut and bolt I pulled out, but for now, "here's hoping you know where they are/where.

The tools I used for this were:
- socket wrench
- extension
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- phillips screw driver
- flat screw driver (smaller the better)

Parts used:
- Evo X intercooler
- Evo X upper intercooler pipe (oem or aftermarket will work)
- coupler for the lower intercooler pipe (red) from Road Race Engineering.

(1) Start by removing the two bolts holding down the intake's inlet pipe. Pull that off and place it to the side for now. Use the flat screw driver to pop up the 3 push tabs holding the black shroud. Remove the shroud and keep track of all the plastic tabs. Remove the 5 10mm bolts holding the top half of the bumper. The fifth one is located beneath the hood latch.

CLEAN. No one likes working on a dirty car. Clean as you go. This mess is what I found under the shroud....

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1843.JPG

(2) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right (or left). Remove the 10mm bolt at the pint point between the bumper and the fender. Then remove the two plastic screws. Repeat on the opposite side.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1844.JPG


(3) Jack up the car as high as you can get it on one side. USE A JACK STAND! Follow around the outside of the lip and remove all the bolts and tabs. There are 4 plastic tabs which you'll need to use the flat screw driver to pop out. The remaining bolts can be removed using a 10mm socket and wrench.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1845.JPG

(4) Remove the two bolts on the top of the grill in the front of the car. These connect to where the blue tabs are, just in front of the intercooler.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1846.JPG

(5) Get a stiff drink. I HATE step 5 with a passion! Reach behind the bumper where the bumper and the fender meet. At this point, the bumper is held on be plastic snaps. Take a deep breath and pull directly out. You'll hear a nasty snap (or series of snaps) (3 total). If it doesn't want to go, you aren't pulling hard enough and probably need another drink.

At this point the bumper should pretty much fall off. Don't forget to pull the electrical plug for the fog lights. This is located just under the hood latch.

[Blaze]

(6) With the bumper off, you have access to the two bolts under the intercooler. Remove these with a 12mm socket. At the point, the intercooler is only being held on by the couplers and the rubber donuts. Unscrew the hose clamps on the couplers and slide the donuts off the side of the support pegs.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1852.JPG

**Size Matters**

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1848.JPG

Almost twice as big.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1849.JPG

Same thickness.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1850.JPG

[Blaze]

(7) Use the coupler you got from RRE on the lower intercooler pipe. Slide it all the way over onto the plastic pipe so its out of the way when you put the new intercooler on. The intercooler should slider right into place, but there are a few gotchas.

a) The passenger side donut will not be a perfect fit. Don't cry about it, there's pleanty of other support points for the intercooler.

b)The lower support points will not line up at first. put a phillips screw driver through the intercooler bracket and gently pry the core toward the drivers side of the car. Have a friend line up and start the screw on the the passenger side. Once you get one in, the other goes in like butter.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1853.JPG

(8) The Upper intercooler pipe won't fit anymore due to the height of the new core. remove it, if you haven't already and replace it with the upper IC section from an evo X donor.

OLD

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1851.JPG

NEW

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1855.JPG

(9) At this point, take a few extra minutes to double check all your connections. Once the bumper is back on, you don't want to blow off intercooler pipes because you forgot to tighten something. Once you're happy, replace the bumper in reverse order.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1856.JPG

This is a great mod for anyone who's planning to build power in their RA. And if you live in southern California, this is pretty much free power and zero risk of citation.

[Ladogaboy]

Thanks for the write up! This is one of the few modifications I am currently considering, since I am in SoCal, and it fits with my future plans (EVO X conversion).

[Blaze]

Thanks for the write up! This is one of the few modifications I am currently considering, since I am in SoCal, and it fits with my future plans (EVO X conversion).

You should be able to pick up an EvoX intercooler for around 1-200 with the piping. If you feel the need to upgrade further, you can get an 600HP core for a few hundred more....

The important thing here is that with the correct piping and couplers, you should be able to run nearly any aftermarket core that an evo can run.

[zeRep85]

SuhhhWEEEET! I 2 plan to do an Evo X conversion and also live in So.Cal. i drive a 2010 GG RA :)

[jRox]

Awesome write-up. I'll definitely use this later down the road. Thanks! :D

[geargrinder]

Thanks a lot Jason, you just made the price of Evo X intercoolers go up :D, but nice write-up anyway.

[Ladogaboy]

Most of the EVO X owners were overpricing their used I/Cs anyway... wanting $300 plus for the stock core and piping. There are fewer RalliArts on the road than EVOs right now (and we can use the same I/Cs as the EVOs do anyway), so I'm not sure why they would charge that much. :confused:

[geargrinder]

Did this install today. Was really easy. Didn't need to get a fancy hose to adapt to the lower I/C piping, as the intercooler that a got still had the stock hose attached to it. It fit perfect. Anyway, thanks again for the write up.
BTW- I picked up the intercooler for $100. I guess I was wrong about the prices going up :)

[Sakura09]

It seems that a majority of the EVO IC is blocked by our bumper. Is there a way to push, or vent air to the upper half of the IC so that it doesn't get ambient heatsoak from the rad or engine bay?

Great write up gonna see about this one since my cars are currently in SOCAL atm :)

[Looney Tuning]

It seems that a majority of the EVO IC is blocked by our bumper. Is there a way to push, or vent air to the upper half of the IC so that it doesn't get ambient heatsoak from the rad or engine bay?

Great write up gonna see about this one since my cars are currently in SOCAL atm :)

Exactly. That is what I noticed from the pictures. Half of the IC is blocked by the bumper. This could make the Evo X IC as efficient as the RA IC. There is not much of a difference in thickness AFAICT from the pics.

[MikeW-RRE]

Even with the airflow blocked the larger I/C helps. As a heat sink alone if can help deal with the high heat of the tiny turbo getting wrung out. air will still flow through it some what at speed.

Best obviously is to cut the bumper for some EVO X style holes.


http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/tech/bumper-airflowmod/reinforcement-cut.jpg


http://roadraceengineering.com/rre/racepics/rta-cali-5-10/800/rossy-infield-04-front.JPG


Mike W

[geargrinder]

good idea.

[razorlab]

http://roadraceengineering.com/rre/racepics/rta-cali-5-10/800/rossy-infield-04-front.JPG


Mike W

Is this your project RA Mr. Mike... or a customers?

[MikeW-RRE]

Is our project car. That is my wife (her first time at the track) beating on it at the Redline Time Attack this weekend. I added some tranny cooler action and an engine oil cooler to it and the tranny held up at 260 (Dynapack) WHP all weekend. I drive a bit harder than she does (I hope :-P ) and I beat on it for a full 30 minute session and no tranny overheating. I have enough pics and info now for a bit of a write up. Gotta get a little sleep first. Long weekend.

Mike W

[razorlab]

Nice. I'd be interested to hear more about the engine oil cooler. OEM or aftermarket?

I was amazed the RA didn't come with a engine oil cooler nor a power steering cooler line...

- Bryan

[MikeW-RRE]

HAhaha, no kidding. I knew there was no air/oil cooler. But I figgered at least there would be a water/oil cooler... something...anything. Looked all over the motor the first RalliArt I had up on a lift. Then checked the manual :-P Nothing.

The engine oil cooler is actually pretty simple. I got a decent size one to fit. But you pretty much have the choice to use a tiny cooler, remove the fog light, or relocate the washer bottle. I took out the fog light and used a huge oil cooler.

Then on the motor side of things, the part where the hoses connect is essentially the same part as an X. You take out two block off plugs and use whatever aftermarket ends you would use on an EVO. Then there is also another plug where you need to just put in the X thermostat. That is what makes the oil flow through the housing now correctly to the cooler.

Mike W

[razorlab]

HAhaha, no kidding. I knew there was no air/oil cooler. But I figgered at least there would be a water/oil cooler... something...anything. Looked all over the motor the first RalliArt I had up on a lift. Then checked the manual :-P Nothing.

The engine oil cooler is actually pretty simple. I got a decent size one to fit. But you pretty much have the choice to use a tiny cooler, remove the fog light, or relocate the washer bottle. I took out the fog light and used a huge oil cooler.

Then on the motor side of things, the part where the hoses connect is essentially the same part as an X. You take out two block off plugs and use whatever aftermarket ends you would use on an EVO. Then there is also another plug where you need to just put in the X thermostat. That is what makes the oil flow through the housing now correctly to the cooler.

Mike W

Oh nice so the oil filter housing is the same as the 10? Just runs the lines, tstat and cooler and same as Evo 10?

- Bryan

[MikeW-RRE]

You got it! Sometimes Mitsubishi does something smart. Other times.... :-/ not so much (420a NT Eclipses)

Mike W

[RalliArtist]

I did this a few days ago and a bunch of mechanical problems after installing it. I was driving on the highway when i lost power and the ASC light came on and 'Transmission service required' showed up on the info display as well as a CEL. I was also getting some major idle surge when i pulled over. After i turned the car off for a while i turned it back on and everything was fine (CEL was still on). So i got home and switched back to the stock IC in case i had to get it towed to the dealer and it ran fine and CEL went off. I have no clue what could have caused all the warning lights but i won't be putting the Evo IC back on.

[Blaze]

Sorry to hear you had problems. You may not have tightened everything down, or you could have a tear in one of the couplers. This is a very simple upgrade and few (if any) things should go wrong if you take your time since it's pretty much a direct swap.

So I got tired of the OEM Evo intercooler and decided to upgrade to an aftermarket core. This is a 3" bar/plate design which has excellent cooling properties. The install is the same as before.

1. Remove the bumper
2. Remove the upper IC piping
3. Loosen the lower IC Piping
4. Remove the lower support bracket bolts (keeping the rubber donuts attached)
5. Remove the rubber donuts and carefully slide the core out.

Install is a repeat of the above.

One thing to note if this is your first time installing an intercooler, oil cooler or radiator. THE FINS ARE VERY FRAGILE. This is why they ship them with a cardboard shield. I recommend leaving the cardboard on during install to avoid raking the fins across anything while you're sliding the core into place.

a) Bumper removed. Excuse the mess.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2829.jpg

b) Leave the donuts on until the last minute. They will support the core, but give you flexibility to move it while getting the rest of the attach points loose and off.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2831.jpg

c) Yuck! I banish thee.....

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2835.jpg

[Blaze]

d) Comparing cores

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2838.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2837.jpg

[Blaze]

e) Slip the new one in and secure. Leave the cardboard on until the last minute to avoid a whoopsie.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2840.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2839.jpg

[Blaze]

f) Remove the cardboard and replace the bumper.

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2845.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2849.jpg

http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk252/BlazeGT4/Ralliart/IMG_2850.jpg

[BravoZero]

Very nice!

[import_racing]

Wooot!!!!
Just did mine today too. =D
Remember to take your time while doing this and double check all of the hose clamps are tight. The Licp is a B$tch!!!
I love the outcome of it. =D
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/3001/img0176mk.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8524/img0178kj.jpg

[KrazyRA]

Wooot!!!!
Just did mine today too. =D
Remember to take your time while doing this and double check all of the hose clamps are tight. The Licp is a B$tch!!!
I love the outcome of it. =D
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/3001/img0176mk.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8524/img0178kj.jpg

What kind of FMIC do you have?

[import_racing]

What kind of FMIC do you have?

Its a DTM FMIC.
This FMIC has been discontinued.

[BlackRA]

Just an FYI since I noticed a lot of people having trouble with their bumpers not being flush after removal. I just installed the evo x intercooler as well as the upper and lower pipes and I did not have to remove the bumper at all. All I did was remove the lower plastic tray (skidplate) from under the car that is connected to the bumper and it slid right out and the evo one went right in. I was able to get at the 2 screws from underneath as well as the licp hose clamps. I just unscrewed the lower grill and used a screwdriver and the rubber hangers popped right off.

[BravoZero]

Just an FYI since I noticed a lot of people having trouble with their bumpers not being flush after removal. I just installed the evo x intercooler as well as the upper and lower pipes and I did not have to remove the bumper at all. All I did was remove the lower plastic tray (skidplate) from under the car that is connected to the bumper and it slid right out and the evo one went right in. I was able to get at the 2 screws from underneath as well as the licp hose clamps. I just unscrewed the lower grill and used a screwdriver and the rubber hangers popped right off.

While I'm sure it's very possible, the LICP was a complete pain in the ass even with the bumper off, I can only imagine the level of difficulty with it on. Either way, glad you were able to get it done, enjoy the increased cooling capacity. :)

[Markspd6]

i actually had to use a jack and foot power to make the evo X LICP fit. its seemed a bit large or slightly off in placement, but if youve ever done this sort of thing before? parts dont always just pop right in even when designed to... it was easily dealt with... less stress on the turbo now too!! hoping for slightly better mileage?

[SubjecttoChange]

hoping for slightly better mileage?

Good luck with that!

[BravoZero]

i actually had to use a jack and foot power to make the evo X LICP fit. its seemed a bit large or slightly off in placement, but if youve ever done this sort of thing before? parts dont always just pop right in even when designed to... it was easily dealt with... less stress on the turbo now too!! hoping for slightly better mileage?

Good luck with that!

I was able to fanagle it out and the new one in with just the bumper off. It's probably the biggest PITA in doing an intercooler setup on this car. Luckily, the OEM EvoX LICP is good for about 350-400whp from what I read, and this car will not come close to that. It's there to stay, lol.

And +1, you won't see any big improvements, if at all, with using a bigger IC and getting better gas mileage.

[08Lancer89]

Even with the airflow blocked the larger I/C helps. As a heat sink alone if can help deal with the high heat of the tiny turbo getting wrung out. air will still flow through it some what at speed.

Best obviously is to cut the bumper for some EVO X style holes.


http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/tech/bumper-airflowmod/reinforcement-cut.jpg


http://roadraceengineering.com/rre/racepics/rta-cali-5-10/800/rossy-infield-04-front.JPG


Mike W

You guys should sell a kit with
A template for those of us who want to cut our bumper like yours man

[beefyralliart]

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

Not sure if I was supposed to get the BOV return pipe from the Evo X for the Evo X LICP. This is what mine looks like. It doesn't really match my RA hose/pipe where it connects to the BOV return pipe. Just curios if yours looks different or what did you do to make it work

[iralli_iskustvo]

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

Not sure if I was supposed to get the BOV return pipe from the Evo X for the Evo X LICP. This is what mine looks like. It doesn't really match my RA hose/pipe where it connects to the BOV return pipe. Just curios if yours looks different or what did you do to make it work

Looks the same. The teturn pipe came with the x licp when I bought mine.

[Drew]

Sorry to bring up an old thread.

Not sure if I was supposed to get the BOV return pipe from the Evo X for the Evo X LICP. This is what mine looks like. It doesn't really match my RA hose/pipe where it connects to the BOV return pipe. Just curios if yours looks different or what did you do to make it work
Go to autozone and buy Dayco hose 71967. Does EXACTLY what you need it to do, and it is cheap....
http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m575/mrtwystir/IMG_0927_zpsf3a15f13.jpg

http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m575/mrtwystir/IMG_0928_zps17c34283.jpg

[Markspd6]

I always include that hose when you buy an intercooler kit from me, its one of the main advantages i provide.. but yeah youll need a new radiator hose to link the licp to the bov... The ra one, can be cut up to fit, its just a bit awkward, and reduces your ability to resell your kit to a reg lancer guy..

[beefyralliart]

Thanks everyone! I bought it from someone at evox that was parting out his car. Didn't know I needed that part also. I wish it this was included in the info for swapping to the X LICP.

[Markspd6]

I have a post on this in that thread somewhere, its a total change up from the original process of cutting the x licp, which is now made easier, after i posted the cutting was unnecessary if you just reused a X bov pipe, cut in half.. Or went to pep boys and did some digging.,

The part i use is just the x bov cut in half, both ends can be used.. the evo guys wont know about this normally, as our setups arent really interchangeable.

[Sabzeero]

Did this upgrade on your write up..... Knife in butter