Evo X intercooler upgrade for R/A: Upgrade to OEM Evo intercooler

[Blaze]

I have a bunch of OEM and aftermarket parts from stage 1 of my Evo project. Most of them should be applicable to the RA. The metal BOV fit, along with a test pipe (for track days). Not I thought I'd see how well the intercooler would fit.

This write up will assume basic mechanical knowledge on the part of the reader as well as a familiarity with the RA. At a later point, I may go back to label every nut and bolt I pulled out, but for now, "here's hoping you know where they are/where.

The tools I used for this were:
- socket wrench
- extension
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- phillips screw driver
- flat screw driver (smaller the better)

Parts used:
- Evo X intercooler
- Evo X upper intercooler pipe (oem or aftermarket will work)
- coupler for the lower intercooler pipe (red) from Road Race Engineering.

(1) Start by removing the two bolts holding down the intake's inlet pipe. Pull that off and place it to the side for now. Use the flat screw driver to pop up the 3 push tabs holding the black shroud. Remove the shroud and keep track of all the plastic tabs. Remove the 5 10mm bolts holding the top half of the bumper. The fifth one is located beneath the hood latch.

CLEAN. No one likes working on a dirty car. Clean as you go. This mess is what I found under the shroud....

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1843.JPG

(2) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right (or left). Remove the 10mm bolt at the pint point between the bumper and the fender. Then remove the two plastic screws. Repeat on the opposite side.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1844.JPG


(3) Jack up the car as high as you can get it on one side. USE A JACK STAND! Follow around the outside of the lip and remove all the bolts and tabs. There are 4 plastic tabs which you'll need to use the flat screw driver to pop out. The remaining bolts can be removed using a 10mm socket and wrench.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1845.JPG

(4) Remove the two bolts on the top of the grill in the front of the car. These connect to where the blue tabs are, just in front of the intercooler.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1846.JPG

(5) Get a stiff drink. I HATE step 5 with a passion! Reach behind the bumper where the bumper and the fender meet. At this point, the bumper is held on be plastic snaps. Take a deep breath and pull directly out. You'll hear a nasty snap (or series of snaps) (3 total). If it doesn't want to go, you aren't pulling hard enough and probably need another drink.

At this point the bumper should pretty much fall off. Don't forget to pull the electrical plug for the fog lights. This is located just under the hood latch.

[Blaze]

(6) With the bumper off, you have access to the two bolts under the intercooler. Remove these with a 12mm socket. At the point, the intercooler is only being held on by the couplers and the rubber donuts. Unscrew the hose clamps on the couplers and slide the donuts off the side of the support pegs.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1852.JPG

**Size Matters**

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1848.JPG

Almost twice as big.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1849.JPG

Same thickness.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1850.JPG

[Blaze]

(7) Use the coupler you got from RRE on the lower intercooler pipe. Slide it all the way over onto the plastic pipe so its out of the way when you put the new intercooler on. The intercooler should slider right into place, but there are a few gotchas.

a) The passenger side donut will not be a perfect fit. Don't cry about it, there's pleanty of other support points for the intercooler.

b)The lower support points will not line up at first. put a phillips screw driver through the intercooler bracket and gently pry the core toward the drivers side of the car. Have a friend line up and start the screw on the the passenger side. Once you get one in, the other goes in like butter.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1853.JPG

(8) The Upper intercooler pipe won't fit anymore due to the height of the new core. remove it, if you haven't already and replace it with the upper IC section from an evo X donor.

OLD

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1851.JPG

NEW

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1855.JPG

(9) At this point, take a few extra minutes to double check all your connections. Once the bumper is back on, you don't want to blow off intercooler pipes because you forgot to tighten something. Once you're happy, replace the bumper in reverse order.

http://www.socalevo.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10569/normal_IMG_1856.JPG

This is a great mod for anyone who's planning to build power in their RA. And if you live in southern California, this is pretty much free power and zero risk of citation.

[Ladogaboy]

Thanks for the write up! This is one of the few modifications I am currently considering, since I am in SoCal, and it fits with my future plans (EVO X conversion).

[Blaze]

Thanks for the write up! This is one of the few modifications I am currently considering, since I am in SoCal, and it fits with my future plans (EVO X conversion).

You should be able to pick up an EvoX intercooler for around 1-200 with the piping. If you feel the need to upgrade further, you can get an 600HP core for a few hundred more....

The important thing here is that with the correct piping and couplers, you should be able to run nearly any aftermarket core that an evo can run.

[zeRep85]

SuhhhWEEEET! I 2 plan to do an Evo X conversion and also live in So.Cal. i drive a 2010 GG RA :)

[jRox]

Awesome write-up. I'll definitely use this later down the road. Thanks! :D

[geargrinder]

Thanks a lot Jason, you just made the price of Evo X intercoolers go up :D, but nice write-up anyway.

[Ladogaboy]

Most of the EVO X owners were overpricing their used I/Cs anyway... wanting $300 plus for the stock core and piping. There are fewer RalliArts on the road than EVOs right now (and we can use the same I/Cs as the EVOs do anyway), so I'm not sure why they would charge that much. :confused:

[geargrinder]

Did this install today. Was really easy. Didn't need to get a fancy hose to adapt to the lower I/C piping, as the intercooler that a got still had the stock hose attached to it. It fit perfect. Anyway, thanks again for the write up.
BTW- I picked up the intercooler for $100. I guess I was wrong about the prices going up :)

[Sakura09]

It seems that a majority of the EVO IC is blocked by our bumper. Is there a way to push, or vent air to the upper half of the IC so that it doesn't get ambient heatsoak from the rad or engine bay?

Great write up gonna see about this one since my cars are currently in SOCAL atm :)

[Looney Tuning]

It seems that a majority of the EVO IC is blocked by our bumper. Is there a way to push, or vent air to the upper half of the IC so that it doesn't get ambient heatsoak from the rad or engine bay?

Great write up gonna see about this one since my cars are currently in SOCAL atm :)

Exactly. That is what I noticed from the pictures. Half of the IC is blocked by the bumper. This could make the Evo X IC as efficient as the RA IC. There is not much of a difference in thickness AFAICT from the pics.

[MikeW-RRE]

Even with the airflow blocked the larger I/C helps. As a heat sink alone if can help deal with the high heat of the tiny turbo getting wrung out. air will still flow through it some what at speed.

Best obviously is to cut the bumper for some EVO X style holes.


http://roadraceengineering.com/ralliart/tech/bumper-airflowmod/reinforcement-cut.jpg


http://roadraceengineering.com/rre/racepics/rta-cali-5-10/800/rossy-infield-04-front.JPG


Mike W

[geargrinder]

good idea.

[razorlab]

http://roadraceengineering.com/rre/racepics/rta-cali-5-10/800/rossy-infield-04-front.JPG


Mike W

Is this your project RA Mr. Mike... or a customers?

[MikeW-RRE]

Is our project car. That is my wife (her first time at the track) beating on it at the Redline Time Attack this weekend. I added some tranny cooler action and an engine oil cooler to it and the tranny held up at 260 (Dynapack) WHP all weekend. I drive a bit harder than she does (I hope :-P ) and I beat on it for a full 30 minute session and no tranny overheating. I have enough pics and info now for a bit of a write up. Gotta get a little sleep first. Long weekend.

Mike W

[razorlab]

Nice. I'd be interested to hear more about the engine oil cooler. OEM or aftermarket?

I was amazed the RA didn't come with a engine oil cooler nor a power steering cooler line...

- Bryan

[MikeW-RRE]

HAhaha, no kidding. I knew there was no air/oil cooler. But I figgered at least there would be a water/oil cooler... something...anything. Looked all over the motor the first RalliArt I had up on a lift. Then checked the manual :-P Nothing.

The engine oil cooler is actually pretty simple. I got a decent size one to fit. But you pretty much have the choice to use a tiny cooler, remove the fog light, or relocate the washer bottle. I took out the fog light and used a huge oil cooler.

Then on the motor side of things, the part where the hoses connect is essentially the same part as an X. You take out two block off plugs and use whatever aftermarket ends you would use on an EVO. Then there is also another plug where you need to just put in the X thermostat. That is what makes the oil flow through the housing now correctly to the cooler.

Mike W

[razorlab]

HAhaha, no kidding. I knew there was no air/oil cooler. But I figgered at least there would be a water/oil cooler... something...anything. Looked all over the motor the first RalliArt I had up on a lift. Then checked the manual :-P Nothing.

The engine oil cooler is actually pretty simple. I got a decent size one to fit. But you pretty much have the choice to use a tiny cooler, remove the fog light, or relocate the washer bottle. I took out the fog light and used a huge oil cooler.

Then on the motor side of things, the part where the hoses connect is essentially the same part as an X. You take out two block off plugs and use whatever aftermarket ends you would use on an EVO. Then there is also another plug where you need to just put in the X thermostat. That is what makes the oil flow through the housing now correctly to the cooler.

Mike W

Oh nice so the oil filter housing is the same as the 10? Just runs the lines, tstat and cooler and same as Evo 10?

- Bryan

[MikeW-RRE]

You got it! Sometimes Mitsubishi does something smart. Other times.... :-/ not so much (420a NT Eclipses)

Mike W

[turtle9er]

Sorry to bring up an old topic, but what size coupler did you purchase. I am getting contradicting info on the web. Is it a 2.5 to 2.5, a 2.5 to 2 or a 2.5 to 2.25. I have a 2011 ralliart, which I assume is same as previous years. Thanks.

[Blaze]

Sorry bro. I don't remember. Mike at RRE just handed me two couples and asked me to return the one that didn't work.

Just measure the ID of the IC port in mm before you install it. Or call RRE. They do these swaps fairly often and probably have the part you need. (plus they can ship it)

[EricS09RA]

I used a 2-2.5 for the upper and a 2.25-2.25 for the lower.

[caRalliArt]

I just picked up a evoX fmic,licp,uicp, do I need to get a reducing coupling or will the intercooler and both pipes bolt up like oem?

[MTZL]

fmic & uicp uses the same mounting points.
licp is pita (pain in the ass) if you are on the ground.
you will have to remove the battery & tray out of the way to clamp on to the Throttle body. On the bottom aligning the licp to all the mounting point takes time & patience. check to see if you have rubber bushing on the all the mounting points, you can use the ones from stock if you dont.

If you got access to a lift it is so much easier.

[bunnishiwa]

Thanks Blaze, your DIY was a big help :D

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/6228/20120707094930001.jpg

[OverCorrupt]

hey bunni what year is your ralliart? on mine the styrofoam covers the entire crash bar. Glad you got a great mod done =) is that the UR UICP? Looks good!

[bunnishiwa]

Cheers Over..

I noticed that in some pics on the site of RA's with the bumper off. Maybe it's the year (mine's 2011) or the fact that mine is Australian?

LIke the mod, but not expecting to notice much difference until I start to self tune (with GST as a base) later this year, and when the weather warms up - it bloody cold here (not all of Oz is stinking hot unfortunately).

It is the UR UICP - looks very nice. Will look at doing the lower one early next year

[Markspd6]

Yeah my 2011 us bumper Used to have a contoured piece that goes most of the length of the crash bar.. Now I have the Usdm X aluminum CB.. And you have a little hole for a tow hook.. Do you actually have a receptor for a tow hook? We don't.:mad:

[Cooljoshb]

So I want to stick with the ralliart piping for upper and lower. You mentioned how the upper won't fit due to core size. Is there a way of making it fit?

[Smeghead]

So I want to stick with the ralliart piping for upper and lower. You mentioned how the upper won't fit due to core size. Is there a way of making it fit?
you could prolly cut the pipe but just get an evo x uicp you can get them for 50$ on here or evolutionm.net

[Cooljoshb]

you could prolly cut the pipe but just get an evo x uicp you can get them for 50$ on here or evolutionm.net

Good call. will i need anything to make it fit?

[Markspd6]

You don't want the original piping, it's as big of a problem as the IC itself. You wanna do a whole EVO x IC and pipe swap, then the bov..

[beretta_m9a1]

beautiful write up, definetly did this to my RA, but i went all the way to the bpv. i replaced the licp, which makes a BIG difference. apparently that dent in the tube restricts air flow, but yea big difference! and OEM is IMO better than aftermarket