BOV that work for RA

[hackerrei]

Hello guy's I have been looking every place I could about BOV for the RA and EVO X.
This is what I found there are plenty of rec BOV out there like:
EVO MR STOCK BOV
Agency Power Adjustable Blow Off Valve
APS Twin Vent Blow Off Valve
Forge EVO Type RS Valve - Recirculating
Tomei EVO Blow Off Valve
TurboSmart Dual Port Blow Off Valve
and lastly
Go Fast Bits Stealth FX Blow Off Valve

We all know that the
HKS SSQ Version 3 Universal Blow Off Valve
GReddy Type RS Blow Off Valve - Universal Fitment
do not work to well with our cars.

From all the diffrent forms and vids I have seen all point to the Gofastbits BOV because it can be fully tuned to the way you want or need with just a twist 100% rec/ 60%rec 40%vent/ 50%rec 50%vent all the way to 100% vent.
It has been fully test for RA and EVO by gofastbits AU to work with no idel or maf error's while holding boost long over the stock BOV.

I have ordered this BOV with the whistle attachment so woosh and cheerp.
I will post pics and vid once it arrives of install setup and runs.
All these BOV can be found at these sites and if you are interested in having a safe woosh or cheerp to let people know you have a turn or just like the sound look at the GFB web site and on youtube.
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/home.php?cat=172
http://www.worksevo.com/
http://www.gfb.com/au
http://www.maperformance.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1
maperformance.com is having a special on GFB BOV the stelth FX for EVO is on sale for $265.00 and the Go Fast Bits Whistling Trumpet Attachment is $35.10
A great deal with free shipping too.

If you have any questions let me know and I will look it up and try to help as much as I can.

Nick

[hackerrei]

Study done by GoFastBits.com

1. Engine doesn't run smoothly (atmo BOV fitted)
If the BOV piston is slightly open at idle as a result of insufficient spring preload, it can cause some or all of the following symptoms:

- Engine stalls after venting, or when pulling to a stop

- When revs fall back to idle, they drop below normal idle rpm before stabilising

- Engine idles roughly or revs hunt up and down

- Significant black smoke or backfiring from the exhaust on deceleration

- Noticeable hesitation when changing gears

The solution is to increase the spring preload by turning the spring adjustment clockwise a turn or two at a time until none of the above symptoms are evident. The aim is to have the piston closed just before the engine returns to idle after being revved.

2. BOV doesn't vent or make any noise
On vehicles that originally had a black-plastic Bosch factory diverter valve fitted, it's really easy to confuse the inlet and outlet of the valve; Bosch valves are usually installed by manufacturers in the opposite orientation to most aftermarket types so try switching the orientation of your GFB BOV around. Trace the hoses that connect to it; the boost pressure from after the turbo should enter the base of the GFB valve, and the dumped air vents through the side outlet(s). Just about the only way a BOV can not vent at all , is if it's installed backwards. Once you've checked that the BOV is oriented correctly, try reducing the spring preload slightly by turning it anticlockwise a couple of turns at a time until it starts to vent.

3. A fluttering sound is heard rather than a 'whoosh'
Turn the spring adjustment anticlockwise to reduce spring preload. Some cars, Nissans in particular, will always do this under normal driving conditions, but should still vent cleanly when driving hard – this is nothing to worry about. Pulsar GTiRs and other cars with multiple throttles, porting or ‘big' cams (or any mods that reduce manifold vacuum) will require a softer spring (GFB 6116).

Also, check that the vacuum hose is connected to the engine inlet manifold after the throttle, that the hose is of at least 3 mm inside diameter, is less than 1m long, and that there isn't anything else tee'd into it e.g. a boost gauge or a MAP sensor. T-joins, accessories and small diameter hoses will slow the reaction time of the valve.

Case study: A customer arrived in a 180SX with a GFB Valve that wasn't working properly, and the car was running like a dog. A quick inspection showed a single, small diameter vacuum connection on the manifold led to the fuel pressure regulator, which was tee'd to the boost controller, which was tee'd to a boost gauge, which was tee'd to the blow off valve. The boost controller didn't work because it should not be connected to vacuum (hence the idle was bad), the tuning was out because the fuel pressure reg was not receiving a clean signal, and the BOV had no chance at all after the signal had been weakened by all the ancillaries before it.

4. BOV doesn't flutter, it makes a 'whoosh' sound
If a car is making a fluttering noise when venting at high rpm and boost, then the BOV isn't doing its job. Contrary to popular belief the noise is actually emitted from the turbo, not the BOV itself.

With an aftermarket BOV fitted some non-detrimental low rpm fluttering does characterise certain cars (as mentioned above) particularly where a larger turbo and intercooler have been fitted.

When properly adjusted, the valve should make a clean PSSSH or Whoosh sound when venting a significant amount of boost. If you want your BOV to flutter a bit, try increasing the spring preload by turning the adjustment clockwise. It's perfectly safe to set your BOV up to cause some low-rpm flutter, as long as it vents with a whoosh at high-rpm and boost.

5. BOV leaks boost
First of all, there are usually three things that lead people to suspect a BOV leak: an audible whooshing sound under boost, a drop in boost pressure, or their mechanic concludes that it is after performing a smoke test.

If there is a suspected BOV related air leak for any of the 3 reasons above, check the o-ring in the base is installed and lubricated, the grub screws are securely tightened and any hose clamps are tightened. Then check that the vacuum hose on the top of the BOV is connected to the manifold with no other accessories tee'd in (see #3). A BOV relies totally on receiving boost pressure from the manifold to stay shut when the throttle is open – if the hose is not connected or suffers a pressure drop for any reason, the valve can open under boost. It's extremely rare for the workings of a BOV itself to actually leak – leaks usually turn out to be elsewhere in the inlet system – like a loose intercooler plumbing connection or a blown manifold gasket.

Audible whooshing sound: there needs to be a significant leak for it to be audible whilst driving. If the valve installation is checked as described above, look for loose intercooler hose clamps, gaskets etc.

A drop in boost pressure or loss of power can occur for a number of reasons depending on the car. As above, there needs to be a significant leak (the equivalent of a 1 cm / 1/2” diameter hole) for there to be a noticeable boost drop. The only way a BOV can leak this amount is if the top of the valve is not receiving full boost pressure. If it is, then unless the valve is physically jammed open, the leak will NOT be coming from the valve. In the case of late-model Audi and VW engines, sometimes the ECU can reduce boost as a safety measure if it detects something is not right (e.g. if the valve is not adjusted correctly).

6. A smoke test indicates that the BOV is leaking
A smoke test isn't a valid means of testing a blow-off valve for leaks – it doesn't replicate on-boost conditions. The problem with a smoke test is that the plumb back port is pressurised – this never happens when you're driving the car. On a Deceptor Pro this will cause smoke to escape from the trumpet. However, this doesn't mean that the valve leaks. Also, the smoke test does not pressurise the manifold, which the BOV relies on to remain shut under boost. As stated above, it's pretty difficult for a BOV to develop a serious air leak of the sort that would noticeably affect the way the car drives.

IMPORTANT! Note that almost every turbo car has a boost controller. The way a boost controller works is by leaking air, but the leak is nowhere near large enough to drop the boost pressure. Consider this if you think a pin-hole-sized leak is coming from your BOV and is causing your 4psi boost drop.

7. BOV cracks open under boost
If you know that your BOV is cracking under boost i.e. you've seen it crack open in the dyno, read on.

If you suspect that it's cracking under boost, it's more likely that scenarios 5 and 6 will help you solve your problem, so you're better off starting there.

Check the vacuum connection. The valve relies on the manifold connection to provide boost pressure to keep the piston shut under boost. If there is a leak or kink in the hose, the pressure will be uneven on the top and bottom of the piston, causing it to open.

Mounting the blow-off valve before an intercooler can also cause this, as it is possible for a poorly designed or ‘bargain basement' intercooler to have a pressure drop large enough to cause the valve to crack open. If possible, measure the boost pressure in the BOV vacuum line and near where it is connected to the intercooler piping. Pressure drops across intercoolers will usually occur at higher RPM.

Case study: A customer had a Mach 1 that was opening under boost on his WRX. It was mounted immediately after the turbo, and a large aftermarket front-mount intercooler was installed. Sure enough, at about 5000RPM at 17psi the valve opened. Testing showed a significant 4psi drop across the intercooler, which started at 4500RPM and increased rapidly. So the bottom of the valve was receiving 21psi, whilst the top of the valve dropped to 17psi by 5000RPM, enough of a difference to cause it to open. In this case, the customer swapped to a much-needed new intercooler (besides causing the BOV to crack open, a 4psi drop across the intercooler would seriously affect performance) which fixed the problem.

If the valve is receiving full boost pressure to the vacuum hose with the throttle wide open, it is not possible for the valve to open, unless it is physically stuck. This can be easily checked visually, or by pushing the piston up and down by hand.

Hope this help's any BOV questions any one has if you have had any of these problems.

[hackerrei]

Here is a video of the stealth fx bov from gfb for the evo also showing the trumpet att /cheerp/.
This is the one I ordered and will post vid install and review.
It also show the in car adjustable one.

Check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcAVfRj9ez4

[hackerrei]

Hello all

The Gofastbits stelth fx bov just came in and I must say it works great.
Ok now for the review.
First the vent port and rec port are a little off center from each other the rec port is a little low then the vent so at low boost the piston won't break the rec tract to vent.
It has 3 controle nobs on the top
1st is the spring tenshinier that controls the height and pressure of the piston.
2nd vac line nipple that can turn 360 degree with out turning the other 2 and messing up your setting.
3rd is the volume nob which controls a cylinder inside the bov that a quiet will cover the vent port and open the rec port all the way making it 100% rec or if you turn it all the way to the right it will open the vent port 100% and cover the rec port so 100% vent and you can adjust it any where in the middle so that both ports are not blocked and it is 50% vent and 50% rec.

I have the spring tenshinier set at 3 1/2 tuns to the right for more spring pressure and the volume nob set at 40 rec and 60 vent.
It sounds very nice you can hear it perfect inside the car and from the front of the house to the inside the living room perfect.
So far driving has not changed boost is still holding the same level and the power is still roaring.
At low boost there is no sound but when you hit full boost and clutch or let off the gas you can hear it.

No lit codes or engine stumble at idel or knock every thing is normal.

I will post vid with sound this weekend but no cheerp yet still waiting for it to come in but plenty of woosh.

Here are some pics.

[hackerrei]

Hello

I am sorry there are no vids yet camera is having prob.
Well I am happy to report that I have drove with the go fast bits stealth fx for 3 weeks now and no problems.
1st week full vent great sound and every thing is good held boost and no problems idel and every thing still running the same.
2nd week 60 vent 40 rec still a lot of sound but not as loud but still good only difference is in full vent it takes a second for the turbo the respool after a vent but that is only when you let off the gas.

I will be at mod to show any body and I will be giving cobb turns for 50Dollars a tune I have all maps for evo x and ralliart.
See u guess there.
Nick

[hackerrei]

I just wanted to ammend my last comment a little as far as the tuning at the time I did not know that the acc port only will mate to one car at a time so you would have the uninstall it from onr car to use on another and the same for that car also.
Wish I could have helped you guy's would have been a great idea a cheap cobb tune with good power gains.
Any way well from all the test I have done with the GFB Stealth FX it is perfect I would have to say if you want a BOV for your RA that won't cause any problems with your car this is the one to get mapper still have them on sale if you want one it's a very good deal.
So go out and blast some whoosh or cheerp at the other car befor you scream right by him..lol

[OVNI]

Still have the GFB stealth fx installed? Any problems?

[hackerrei]

Hi

Yep still have it installed and running 100% vent no prob very good BOV what else can I say it has great sound very loud even when doing 85 press the gas then let off and wooosh.great lolo.

Must buy check the site above and see if it is still on sale you will be happy.

[larmyca]

Hello all

The Gofastbits stelth fx bov just came in and I must say it works great.
Ok now for the review.
First the vent port and rec port are a little off center from each other the rec port is a little low then the vent so at low boost the piston won't break the rec tract to vent.
It has 3 controle nobs on the top
1st is the spring tenshinier that controls the height and pressure of the piston.
2nd vac line nipple that can turn 360 degree with out turning the other 2 and messing up your setting.
3rd is the volume nob which controls a cylinder inside the bov that a quiet will cover the vent port and open the rec port all the way making it 100% rec or if you turn it all the way to the right it will open the vent port 100% and cover the rec port so 100% vent and you can adjust it any where in the middle so that both ports are not blocked and it is 50% vent and 50% rec.

I have the spring tenshinier set at 3 1/2 tuns to the right for more spring pressure and the volume nob set at 40 rec and 60 vent.
It sounds very nice you can hear it perfect inside the car and from the front of the house to the inside the living room perfect.
So far driving has not changed boost is still holding the same level and the power is still roaring.
At low boost there is no sound but when you hit full boost and clutch or let off the gas you can hear it.

No lit codes or engine stumble at idel or knock every thing is normal.

I will post vid with sound this weekend but no cheerp yet still waiting for it to come in but plenty of woosh.

Here are some pics.

how much was it and how easy to install?

[hackerrei]

Hi

I got mine for around 300.00 but I also ordered the cheerp att for it.
But the bov is around 377.00 now for the stealth fx and the Go Fast Bits Respons Blow Off Valve (Evo 8 & 9 / Evo X) T9033 is 224.10 on sale this one will work for the RA.
Pretty much any thing that said it will work for evo X will work on the RA.
This is the price for http://www.maperformance.com just search go fast bits.
You can check other site but this is where I got mine and to is the same deal so I would go with this I was not able to find it for the same price.

Very easy to install unscrew the stock and screw on the GFB look at my pic #2 you will se the position it needs to be and the clamps to unscrew.
Takes about 5 min the you will need to do 3 to 5 full turns from all the way - so from full - turn 3 to 5 full turn + or any more or less as needed if the idel is a little funny turn - or + till idel is normal then setup your vent or rec how you want very easy has a valume meter counter clock ways is rec and clock ways is vent just turn till you get what you want 0vent 100 rec or 100vent 0rec or 50 - 50 or 30- 70 or 80- 20 what ever you want but 100 vent works perfect and does not affect the boost or your times I already logged 100 vent and 100rec no diffrence.
But I did notice at 100 vent if you full throt then let off then put full throt back on it takes 1sec for it to get the boost back but thats because you let out the reserve but with the sst don't realy matter because the throt is always open till you let off the gas.

Not tested on a stick car only SST but I would think it would be the same as any other bov on vent for stick.

[MTZL]

Nice write up! Thanks for the info.
Kinda pricey but very functional I like it.
I got a question for you tho'.
How much boost can that thing handle??
Synapse BOV can hold 100psi which is about 2/3 of the cost.

Im debating which one to put into my build list.

[hackerrei]

Well I don't know for shure how much max boost it can hold but Go fast bits backs it to 30-36psi but thats all you really need any way.lol
As far as Synapse I can't realy say much for since I have not tested it and the write ups are vauge since most say it causes lit codes or boost surge but I can say for shure the safest bet is the GFB since I have tested it and have never seen any review about lits or surge and GFB also has great customer service that will help you with any thing check out the site.
I would trust GFB because they have been working on and testing there stuff on WRX STI AND EVO for a long time that is what they work with the most so I would trust them over another comp that works with all kinds of cars and not spec EVO's or WRX-STi.
But in the end you get what you pay for..
Better to go with some one that only works with the car you have and not one that is universal because they don't have the long exp on your type of car.

Hope this helps.

[MTZL]

Well I don't know for shure how much max boost it can hold but Go fast bits backs it to 30-36psi but thats all you really need any way.lol
As far as Synapse I can't realy say much for since I have not tested it and the write ups are vauge since most say it causes lit codes or boost surge but I can say for shure the safest bet is the GFB since I have tested it and have never seen any review about lits or surge and GFB also has great customer service that will help you with any thing check out the site.
I would trust GFB because they have been working on and testing there stuff on WRX STI AND EVO for a long time that is what they work with the most so I would trust them over another comp that works with all kinds of cars and not spec EVO's or WRX-STi.
But in the end you get what you pay for..
Better to go with some one that only works with the car you have and not one that is universal because they don't have the long exp on your type of car.

Hope this helps.

Synapse BOV must be install horizontally by design to work properly.
GFB is by far most adjustable & functional, with 30-36psi is good enough but wish it held more.
Thanks, I appreciate the info.

[johnell]

Hi Guys,

I had a HKS blow off but my MAF sensor got messed up. The thing is that I don't know if it was the HKS blow off or the HKS drop in filter. The other mods that I have are:

- 3 inch down pipe
- 3 inch exhaust system (catless)
- evo x intercooler
- upper pipe
- Dynocenter Tune
- Blox manual boost controller

I also have an evo ix stock bpv but I don't want the maf to go all crazy again so... any thoughts on what should I do? Put the evo ix bpv or leave the stock plastic.

Thanks Guys!!!!

[hackerrei]

I would say use your EVO 9 BOV over the plastic RA one.
That is only if you don't want to upgrade it.
But for a stock or lightly modded RA evo stock will work fine but if you go for more power better to upgrade the BOV or crush the evo BOV.

That would be my thoughts.

[johnell]

Thanks, I will use the evo 9 BOV.

[bam6985]

the Go Fast Bits Respons Blow Off Valve (Evo 8 & 9 / Evo X) T9033 is 224.10 on sale this one will work for the RA.


I can't find the stealth for under 450 anywhere... The Respons looks ok. Is there a reason you chose one over the other?

P.S. great post by the way

[hackerrei]

http://www.maperformance.com is were I ordered mine from and it was under $350.00 it is under evo x bov.
But yes from all test and other reviews of all the diffrent types of bov that have been put on a evo x or a ra GFB is the best all round for a bov that can do the wooosh cheerp or 100 rec.
Holds good boost and causes no maf issues.

Hope this helps when I got mine they were on sale.

[zippo_the_pimp]

hello all,

i have read the whole thread and dont see any one who has said anything about the GFB Deceptor Pro. i was just wondering why you chose not to go with that, and if anyone has have they had any problems with it.

[hackerrei]

Hi the Deceptor Pro and the Stealth FX are the same unit only the deceptor pro has a electric motor to change the vent to rec postion from inside the car but the stealth fx you have to go under the hood and change it your self.
Both work the same so this one will work just as the one tested in this thread.

[MTZL]

Hi the Deceptor Pro and the Stealth FX are the same unit only the deceptor pro has a electric motor to change the vent to rec postion from inside the car but the stealth fx you have to go under the hood and change it your self.
Both work the same so this one will work just as the one tested in this thread.

My name is Bond, James Band.. k nvm that.

Electronic control from inside the cabin sounds like 007.
Very GREASY! :D

Now we just need oil slicks, spikes, & smoke screen for our RA. :D

[zippo_the_pimp]

Hi the Deceptor Pro and the Stealth FX are the same unit only the deceptor pro has a electric motor to change the vent to rec postion from inside the car but the stealth fx you have to go under the hood and change it your self.
Both work the same so this one will work just as the one tested in this thread.

yezzzzir. I undersand that much but why is it that you didnt go with the deceptor?

[larmyca]

My name is Bond, James Band.. k nvm that.

Electronic control from inside the cabin sounds like 007.
Very GREASY! :D

Now we just need oil slicks, spikes, & smoke screen for our RA. :D

....and the ejector seat, for the wife!:cool:

[hackerrei]

Well in all truth if you want vent so you have a woosh then you just turn it to 100% vent and close the hood.
I mean it would be cool to do it from inside the car while on the go but there is no real point to that because if you get it and set it to vent why would you want to change it back to REC?
I test in 100%ven 50-50% vent-rec and 100% rec all hold the same boost psi and hit the same peak boost number.
The only real diffrence is in rec it keeps boost psi in the pipe so there si little lag when going off the gas and then going back on it.
In vent there is a little lag when going off the gas because of venting the boost psi out of the pipe.
But if you go to the track for a race or track day you would just open the hood any way to check every thing out befor you raced so just turn it to rec while you are there and when your done open the hood check your stuff maby let it cool a little and turn it to vent.

Most race turbo drivers have only vent setup because it lets the back boost psi out of the pipe so it does not rec back to the turbo causing it to back spin which will shorten the life of a turbo and under racing condishions will do it alot faster.

Pluse the desept is alot more then the stealth fx but I mean both are the same just with the added elect motor in one.

But for me I don't minde getting out the car and turning it my self and pay a little less is all ways a pluse +.

[MTZL]

....and the ejector seat, for the wife!:cool:

lmao, Yeah you cant live with em & cant live without em. :D

[MTZL]

...
I test in 100%ven 50-50% vent-rec and 100% rec all hold the same boost psi and hit the same peak boost number.
The only real diffrence is in rec it keeps boost psi in the pipe so there si little lag when going off the gas and then going back on it.
In vent there is a little lag when going off the gas because of venting the boost psi out of the pipe.
But if you go to the track for a race or track day you would just open the hood any way to check every thing out befor you raced so just turn it to rec while you are there and when your done open the hood check your stuff maby let it cool a little and turn it to vent.

Most race turbo drivers have only vent setup because it lets the back boost psi out of the pipe so it does not rec back to the turbo causing it to back spin which will shorten the life of a turbo and under racing condishions will do it alot faster.

You r absolutely correct.
On the contrary rec is better than vent, right?
vent cause issues with the ECU & MAF/MAP & AFR, right?.
From What I have read Vented boost psi is not recognized by ECU or MAF/MAP so extra fuel is being dump into the engine for nothing cause it to run rich?

Well I guess running rich is better than lean.

[hackerrei]

A blowoff valve, (sometimes "hooter valve", not to be confused with a bypass valve) performs the same task but releases the air into the atmosphere instead of recirculating it. The blowoff action produces a range of distinctive hissing sounds, depending on the exit design. Some blowoff valves are sold with a trumpet-shaped exit that intentionally amplifies the sound. Some turbocharged vehicle owners may purchase a blowoff valve solely for the auditory effect even when the function is not required by normal engine operation. Motor sports governed by the FIA have made it illegal to vent unmuffled blowoff valves to the atmosphere.[citation needed]

Blowoff valves are used to prevent compressor surge, a phenomenon that readily occurs when lifting off the throttle of an unvented, turbocharged engine. When the throttle plate on a turbocharged engine closes, the high pressure air in the intake system is trapped by the throttle and a pressure wave is forced back into the compressor. The compressor wheel slows rapidly and may even stall, and the driver will notice a fluttering air sound. The rapid slowing or stalling stresses the turbo and imparts severe turbo lag if the driver accelerates immediately after the surge event.


About the MAF
In the case where a mass airflow sensor is used and must be located prior to the blowoff valve, the engine control unit (ECU) will meter out excess fuel because the atmospherically vented air is not subtracted from the intake charge measurements. The engine then briefly operates with a fuel-rich mixture after each valve actuation.

The rich mixing can lead to hesitation or even stalling of the engine when the throttle is closed, a situation that worsens with higher boost pressures. Occasional events of this type may be only a nuisance, but frequent events can eventually foul the spark plugs and destroy the catalytic converter, as the inefficiently combusted fuel produces soot (excess carbon) and unburned fuel in the exhaust flow can produce soot in the converter and drive the converter beyond its normal operating temperature range.

One way to mitigate the problem is to reduce the boost pressure, which reduces the required venting volume and yields less charge over-calculation by the ECU. The air can also be recirculated back into the intake, a typical stock setup for cars with an upstream MAF sensor. The situation can also be corrected by switching the fuel metering system over to a manifold absolute pressure sensor, a conversion that usually requires a compatible aftermarket ECU or piggy-back fuel controller. The MAP sensor monitors the absolute pressure in the manifold at all times and will correctly detect the change that occurs when the valve vents, allowing the ECU to reduce fuel metering accordingly.

So it is realy up to you with what system you want to use and is why this BOV is the best I have seen for the RA you can make it do any of the above and test on a RA for both vent and rec.
Rec works the same as stock but does not leak and vent works great to with no MAF problems ever since testing first started early summer.

Hope this help answer any questions.

[MTZL]

....Motor sports governed by the FIA have made it illegal to vent unmuffled blowoff valves to the atmosphere.[citation needed]
......
......
One way to mitigate the problem is to reduce the boost pressure, which reduces the required venting volume and yields less charge over-calculation by the ECU. The air can also be recirculated back into the intake, a typical stock setup for cars with an upstream MAF sensor. The situation can also be corrected by switching the fuel metering system over to a manifold absolute pressure sensor, a conversion that usually requires a compatible aftermarket ECU or piggy-back fuel controller. The MAP sensor monitors the absolute pressure in the manifold at all times and will correctly detect the change that occurs when the valve vents, allowing the ECU to reduce fuel metering accordingly.

So it is realy up to you with what system you want to use and is why this BOV is the best I have seen for the RA you can make it do any of the above and test on a RA for both vent and rec.
Rec works the same as stock but does not leak and vent works great to with no MAF problems ever since testing first started early summer.

Hope this help answer any questions.

Great info. Much Appreciated.

Motor sports governed by the FIA have made it illegal to vent unmuffled blowoff valves to the atmosphere. I didnt know that. :confused: why?

vent works but mpg will sux with atomsphere. aftermarket ECU or piggy-back fuel controller that can get expensive.

I had atmosphere bov with a trumpet which was given to me & i installed it, it made cooo-cooo-coooo noise. But I watched my mpg go from 22-20mpg to 18-16mpg. I took it off & bought Evo IX BOV.

I do like the Deceptor Pro and the Stealth FX. Very functional. +1

[zeRep85]

Any cliff notes?

haha

So much reading! Cant be reading all that at work!

[larmyca]

Any cliff notes?

haha

So much reading! Cant be reading all that at work!

I've had the evo IX one on for a few days and it seems to work just fine

[zeRep85]

I've had the evo IX one on for a few days and it seems to work just fine

I have the Evo X bov sitting in my room..patiently waiting..

[MTZL]

I have the Evo X bov sitting in my room..patiently waiting..

What is it waiting for?? Install it. Get rid of the plastic one, use it as a paper weight or shelf decoration.

[zeRep85]

Is there any gains with just replacing it?

My understanding is when the boost is raised that is when the metal bov is needed.

[MikeW-RRE]

I tested back to back with the plastic RA BOV vs the EVO 9/X BOV on a stock car and didnt see any appreciable difference. Then later on a tuned RA running high boost and you could see the difference. 1-2 psi better holding on a car running 22-23 psi.

I also put a RA BOV on an EVO X running 25 psi and you could see a huge difference with the plastic RA BOV leaking about 3 psi.

Mike W

[zeRep85]

I tested back to back with the plastic RA BOV vs the EVO 9/X BOV on a stock car and didnt see any appreciable difference.

Mike W

Might as well try to get some life out of the plastic bov :)

[jRox]

I'm a little confused as to why people want to swap out their OEM BOV. If you're running higher boost due to a tune, then I can understand considering the RA BOV tends to leak. But at stock levels, there's no real reason to upgrade--it's a waste of money. If one is desires the VTA sound, this can simply be achieved with an open element intake while leaving the BOV recirculated as it should be. Just my 2 cents.

[hackerrei]

That is a little true but the sound is very small while driving it will not be heard by any one and with the windows up you wont hear it even inside your car.
The RA runs so little boost and the turbo is so small that the spooled air is very little so even with a vent bov the sound is very little.
But is louder then just having a filter and running rec that makes almost no noise at all on a RA and even with a evo 8.
It's nothing like a vent bov.

To compare a evo 8 stock at less the half boost will make the same vent sound as a RA at full boost.
So to run a vent bov on a RA is pointless till you get a bigger turbo and if you have SST to make a sound from a vent you would have to take your foot off the gas to make it vent so it would be like 1st gear 2nd gear foot off 1 swoosh or 1st gear foot off swoosh 2nd gear foot off swoosh or just stay in a gear press the gass then let off and swoosh but i would only do this in 5th or 6th gear but still a little pointless if you are looking for sound.
I did take to RA off road on a dirt track make a turn in 2nd 5000rpm gas let off the gas let off to controle the slide and woosh woosh sounded cool.
On the high way with stock RA you can hear it when you do a 6th gear pull then let off but not shure if the car next to you can if there windows are up.

If you want a great woosh street racer sound bigger turbo and setup the bov for vent.

But the best point to make is that no matter what you are looking for in a bov the GFB decp and stealth fx are the best choise for money for are cars they work 99% better then any other and you can make it what ever you want with a turn you can't beat that i want vent today driving around town and i want rec tomorrow for a track day.
No other comes close tested to the max and still running strong.

Hope this help any questions.

[larmyca]

I'm a little confused as to why people want to swap out their OEM BOV. If you're running higher boost due to a tune, then I can understand considering the RA BOV tends to leak. But at stock levels, there's no real reason to upgrade--it's a waste of money. If one is desires the VTA sound, this can simply be achieved with an open element intake while leaving the BOV recirculated as it should be. Just my 2 cents.

...but once you exceed stock levels you can smell the plastic BOV melting under hard accel and especially when u lift throttle:D

[hackerrei]

Well it has been a while I retested the stealth fx on the evo x and using the Cobb app for boost checks I found that the stock bov only holds max boost for a few sec before dropping hard to 17psi I used the go fast bits stealth fx and the boost stayed constant through the rev rang groping to 19psi at red line so for those with upgrade turbo or x turbo the x stock bov does not hold boost as good as a after market from 23psi to 19psi at recline it held in the 20 range far longer then the stock.

[p1llar]

Seems to be some good info in here, in your initial post you mentioned the Greddy RS bov's do not work well with our cars. Why is that?

[hackerrei]

Well they do like so many other BOV out there do and send your car into limp mode trowing cels and making a drop in boost psi not to mention this strange jerking and then back fire so many problems on both the RA and EVO X but there are a few times these BOV cause no problems at all but too many times they do so its a risk and it would sux to spend 200 to 400 on a aftermarket bov then find out it leaks and you have to put the stocker back on and here you are with a leaking bov and money lost.
In all truth I will tell you on test with my old RA and my EVO X these are the bov to buy.

GFB new line of BOV
COBB BOV
WORKS BOV
SANAPSys BOV
TOMMI BOV

Those are the best hands down they all hold over stock boost, they don't leak, they won't trow cells, and they won't affect the drivability of your car.

[p1llar]

Cool thanks for the quick response.

I was just curious cause there are some Godspeed Type RS knockoffs being sold cheap locally. But if it's just going to cause problems then i'll pass.

[hackerrei]

Yeah it's like every thing else you will get what you pay for if you want the best got to spend big .
I will tell you what CABB Austin told me synapse bov with the REC kit and cobbs BOV are the best ones when looking for having power and keeping it trough the rev range.
So if I were you or any one I would check them out COBB even use them on there time attack and project cars.

[Mkid]

I've been using a Greddy Type-S replica BOV because my FMIC piping kit has a Greddy flange and it has been fine for me. Even when I had it way too tight it didn't give me any problems, just a lot of flutter which I have since adjusted away.

[p1llar]

How do you like that CX Racing kit?

Seen them on ebay recently. Fitment good? Do you have any photos and sound clips?

[Mkid]

The CXRacing kit is really good for how cheap it is. Its not the best but gets the job done.

You have to bend the brackets a bit and get a long coupler or stack a coupler on top of another one for it to meet up with the stock RA FMIC as is expected for a piping kit made for an evo. the BOV placement is a little weird too. it is before the fmic instead of after which makes it a sort of anti-lag/weight saving design although the down side to this is you are sending hot turbo air back into the turbo after you blow off. You also have to cut off the clamp that holds your re-circ pipe in place and get a shorter hose for the BOV to fit in there.

You can hear the rush of air a tad bit more. The BOV itself isn't really any louder, if it is, only slightly. It is just a different tone now. Less airy and has a whistle to it.

Sounds like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_30fk2KA2E4

here is a pic of it installed on my car:

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/231128_10150169610444355_508514354_6825332_6211747 _n.jpg

I think I have better pictures somewhere. Let me know if you want me to dig them up or take more.

Here is the thread where I originally discussed buying and installing it:

http://clubralliart.com/showthread.php?t=1700

[p1llar]

Good info, thanks man.

[hackerrei]

Did you run a smoke test on your system after you installed it that would be a good idea since so many aftermarket bov and bov kits have been known to leak cost like $40.
Cobb said that if you get a tune done with a leaky bov you could run the chance of hitting rich on this run then lean the next and with more boost that could be bad for you eng.
Thats why I like cobb before a tune they do a full check of the car smoke test and all.

The stock bov leaks boost bad at peak but some aftermarket hold boost better then others I used the gfb and peak was 26psi and it held that and in the 20+psi range through most of the rev range finnishing at 19psi by redline so another thing to look for in a BOV.