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  #11  
Old 10-26-2012, 10:32 AM
RALM RALM is offline
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Originally Posted by Drew View Post
So it's that time again. I know everyone may not want this, but I have had a few people request it, so I decided to design it and see who might be interested. There are two variants that I am toying with.

1) Just a bezel and a straight duct just like the FQ400 has.

2) A bezel and a duct that directs air DIRECTLY in to the intake tube. And when I say air, I mean air and everything in it. This would require modification of the plastic radiator cover under the hood (where shown in the pics below).

The FQ400 has an unmodified radiator cover (shown). Air still flows better in to the snorkel than with the stock bumper, but it doesn't have a direct path, as it has to go around the baffle that is part of the radiator cover (shown). For option 1, you just need to cut the bumper skin only.




very nice dude
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  #12  
Old 10-26-2012, 10:41 AM
RALM RALM is offline
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Originally Posted by Rokpapaziz View Post
I'm actually interested in version 1 for the ralliart to clear things up!
Although option 2 makes more since, I to am interested in option 1 because it will introduce cooler air into the engine bay the the intake scoop but it will also just clean the look up with out having to cut up the radiator cover.
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Injen SRI, UR UICP & LICP, UR 4.5 IC, COBB AP custome stg 2 tune, 3in TBE, Whiteline front strut bar, RRM rear strut bar, tint, roof spoiler, 2.5 turbo compressor outlet pipe, AMS BOV, AMS Boost Pill, TWE Catch Can, Megan Racing Coil Overs

Future Engine and Tranny Mods:
Water Meth Kit
SSP Oil Cooler
Fan for Stock Trans Cooler w/ washable filter

Future Suspension Mods:
Sway Bars
Rear Diff Bushing Kit
Cusco 4 or 5 pt Brace
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  #13  
Old 10-26-2012, 04:10 PM
TrailBrake TrailBrake is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew View Post
Keep in mind that air is being "sucked" in from the engine and not "forced" in from the outside world. This whole concept isn't an idea to cram more air in. It is to let the intake suck in COOLER air that hasn't blown across, or in close proximity to the radiator. That weather stripping not sealing would have zero effect, as the cooler air is going to take the path of least resistance. And at that point, the path of least resistance for the cooler, outside air, is directly into the vacuum created by the snorkel. Hope that makes sense.
I hear what you are saying, and I will take your word for it as I am by no means well versed in this topic.

My thinking was based on a stock car without a nose vent. With an intake enclosure that seals it to the radiator plate (as with the Password JDM picture below), I would think the air is coming in from the front grill, up through the rad plate, and into the intake.

The rad plate does extend a bit on the underside below the intake to hopefully help channel and reduce the effect of air coming in contact with the rad itself. A rad plate could be made that extended all the way to the front grill.

Maybe I'm getting this all wrong and my thinking is off base, but wouldn't it be preferred in the absence of a nose vent to have the rad plate channel air front the inside of the front grill all the way up into the intake?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg password_jdm_intake_&_radiator_plate.JPG (43.3 KB, 75 views)

Last edited by TrailBrake; 10-27-2012 at 11:08 PM.
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  #14  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:11 PM
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GAbOS GAbOS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew View Post
Keep in mind that air is being "sucked" in from the engine and not "forced" in from the outside world. This whole concept isn't an idea to cram more air in. It is to let the intake suck in COOLER air that hasn't blown across, or in close proximity to the radiator.
+1

That's why I would much prefer option 1 over 2. Both are great designs, but would the gain be that great choosing option 2 to deal with constantly keeping your intake clear of 'stuff'?

This car has one of the best OE intake setups I've seen. Option 1 is a very simple and straight forward way of maximizing on that. Is there that much more to gain, keeping in mind we are talking 'within reason'.

Drew, huge grats for taking this on!
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  #15  
Old 10-26-2012, 08:22 PM
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A point to made about Ram Air vs. what ever. Yes, the motor can and will suck more air and create negative pressure. I had an all motor 302 Mustang way back when and the top end was all business. I had to tune it for low AFR because at WOT you could hear it sucking the air from space-time itself.

Does ram air work? Eff yes it does! I'm talking real ram air. Take the P-JDM and Option 2 and that as close as you are going to get to ram air w/o removing a headlight.

When I am in doubt of a concept, I always think about F1 cars and what they are doing, or have been banned from doing. They run one massive intake right above the drivers head, and then.. place winglets and curves (sometimes on drivers helmets!) to help direct air in the large gaping hole.
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  #16  
Old 10-30-2012, 08:55 PM
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Nice, you have my support. Make it, I will buy one. Make it cheap enough I will buy two. One for me & another to give away.
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  #17  
Old 10-30-2012, 09:03 PM
RALM RALM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAbOS View Post
A point to made about Ram Air vs. what ever. Yes, the motor can and will suck more air and create negative pressure. I had an all motor 302 Mustang way back when and the top end was all business. I had to tune it for low AFR because at WOT you could hear it sucking the air from space-time itself.

Does ram air work? Eff yes it does! I'm talking real ram air. Take the P-JDM and Option 2 and that as close as you are going to get to ram air w/o removing a headlight.

When I am in doubt of a concept, I always think about F1 cars and what they are doing, or have been banned from doing. They run one massive intake right above the drivers head, and then.. place winglets and curves (sometimes on drivers helmets!) to help direct air in the large gaping hole.
You have a good point, although others may argue that ram air on a turbo vehicle is usless or not very efficient, it actually does some justice. Yes, a turbo is designed to work well by sucking in neutral air, but having some sort of ram air set up will allow the turbin wheel to spin the compressor wheel with a little less drag.
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09 Ralliart=256whp & 290wtq
Current Mods
Injen SRI, UR UICP & LICP, UR 4.5 IC, COBB AP custome stg 2 tune, 3in TBE, Whiteline front strut bar, RRM rear strut bar, tint, roof spoiler, 2.5 turbo compressor outlet pipe, AMS BOV, AMS Boost Pill, TWE Catch Can, Megan Racing Coil Overs

Future Engine and Tranny Mods:
Water Meth Kit
SSP Oil Cooler
Fan for Stock Trans Cooler w/ washable filter

Future Suspension Mods:
Sway Bars
Rear Diff Bushing Kit
Cusco 4 or 5 pt Brace
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  #18  
Old 11-05-2012, 01:00 PM
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Looks like it may hit right around the $100-$120 mark, but still massaging the design to get cost as low as possible.
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2012, 05:44 PM
RALM RALM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew View Post
Looks like it may hit right around the $100-$120 mark, but still massaging the design to get cost as low as possible.
That price sounds reasonable and its not as pricey as the intercooler bezal.
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Current Mods
Injen SRI, UR UICP & LICP, UR 4.5 IC, COBB AP custome stg 2 tune, 3in TBE, Whiteline front strut bar, RRM rear strut bar, tint, roof spoiler, 2.5 turbo compressor outlet pipe, AMS BOV, AMS Boost Pill, TWE Catch Can, Megan Racing Coil Overs

Future Engine and Tranny Mods:
Water Meth Kit
SSP Oil Cooler
Fan for Stock Trans Cooler w/ washable filter

Future Suspension Mods:
Sway Bars
Rear Diff Bushing Kit
Cusco 4 or 5 pt Brace
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  #20  
Old 11-05-2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RALM View Post
That price sounds reasonable and its not as pricey as the intercooler bezal.
People don't realize how much material and machining goes in to that bezel. This is much smaller, and correspondingly, cheaper.
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