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  #41  
Old 11-18-2013, 10:47 AM
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Default Video!

This is a link to some video I put together for this.

http://youtu.be/zAmcM1kYy9g
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  #42  
Old 11-24-2013, 02:39 PM
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so the evo lca do indeed work?
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  #43  
Old 11-25-2013, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.JayDeeM View Post
so the evo lca do indeed work?
Yes, they do, you don't have to do anything to them. You can use them stock. I just went that, "Extra Mile".
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  #44  
Old 11-25-2013, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uemoto-JP View Post
This is a link to some video I put together for this.

http://youtu.be/zAmcM1kYy9g
Great work sir! What exhaust system do you have? Sounds very nice.

Edit: Never mind at the end of the video it says you have UR exhaust.
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RA - Built head - Built SST - ID1000cc - GTX3576R - GSC S2 cams - GSC beehives/Ti retainers - Timing Chain kit - ARP head studs - AMS fuel rail - AMS Widemouth dp - TurboXS exhaust - DrivenFab oil catch can - MAP oil pan - MAP cast manifold - AEM wideband - COBB 3 port EBCS - Tial QRJ - Sakura 3.5 intake - Kozmic Walbro 450 fuel pump - Depo Racing fmic/licp - TS engine/exhaust mounts - Cusco bar - D2 RS coil - Megan Racing control arms/toe - Whiteline sway bars - Brembo 6 piston


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Last edited by iralli_iskustvo; 11-25-2013 at 10:36 AM.
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  #45  
Old 11-26-2013, 04:10 PM
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I stay so on this thread!!! But i do have a question? it looks like the stock evo x will fit, w/o any mods, but will it work with the whiteline bump steer kit w/o any mods?

my bad i think i got it(i just watched your video), u installed the stock evo x arm with all the whiteline parts for it(front inner, rear, and bump steer) and it fit right?? but you just made mods to the rear bushing to have it your way lol

Last edited by Nast_Nas; 11-26-2013 at 04:20 PM. Reason: re-phrase
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  #46  
Old 11-26-2013, 07:43 PM
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is it worth swapping the evo x lca?
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  #47  
Old 11-27-2013, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.JayDeeM View Post
is it worth swapping the evo x lca?
Yes, as it's probably the cheapest way to gain real caster, which this car desperately needs. Also, there is a slight camber gain. You will need an alignment because this will change the front geometry, and the front half-shafts, as a benefit, will line up better with the front diff centerline/driveline.

You can run the stock arm no changes, or you can install the whiteline kits. The rear bushing is the issue, but that is fixable, with some effort. You could run with the inside bushing and the roll-center kit only, and just use the stock rear bushing. Everything will bolt right up.
Some people might wonder, "Why go through all the trouble of LCA bushing installs and the upper strut mount change?" If you notice in the video, my wheel assemble NEVER moves out of alignment under acceleration and braking load inputs, which translates into no camber,caster,toe changes! This would cause under steer most of the time.

I will be tracking this setup sometime in the spring, so more to come. I currently run zero toe up front and zero toe in the rear. Camber is set at about a little under negative two, front and rear. I don't know what the front caster is yet, but I'm pretty sure it's double the stock value. I don't feel any bump-steer, but there is a little off throttle oversteer, which I like. Some things might change because I still have stiff walled advan AD08s to install in the spring.

I really need to start a build thread, but I wouldn't know where to begin...
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  #48  
Old 11-28-2013, 09:53 AM
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Nice work.
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  #49  
Old 12-01-2013, 10:55 PM
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Well, I think my car will be an issue bec I'm FWD.
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